Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't mind driving some else's fast car, I'll only ever own my skyline.

I don't mind f**king some else's woman, I'll always go home to mine.

[OK that last line was a joke].

When I bought my 'line it was not totally std, but I've bought, bartered, swapped and traded parts and am [still] in the [unending] process of setting it up to suit me.

I bought the line cos it was in my price and spec range, the biggest bang, the lowest k's, the latest model car I could get for my fistful of dinero's.

So I don't think it matters at all what you buy, ITS WHAT YOU DO WITH IT AFTER YOU BOUGHT IT............................THATS WHAT MATTERS.

Sorry, I dont respect a guy i know who bought a fully worked tx3.  

The guy couldnt even tell me how his boost controller worked or how to adjust his bov.

So he was only interested in driving his car, not playing with it? nothing wrong with that, kills converstation when you ask about his car, but still :)

Haven't you ever seen Days of Thunder? :D

Sorry, I dont respect a guy i know who bought a fully worked tx3.  

The guy couldnt even tell me how his boost controller worked or how to adjust his bov.

There will be a flood of people like that around when all the modded 89 GTR's come into the country. They are commonly known as cheque book car owners.

I would rather buy a stock car and build it up the way i wanted so if someone asks you something about it you actually know what you are talking about same way i would rather have a conversation with someone who built their car themselves that someone that bought someone elses ideas.

There will be a flood of people like that around when all the modded 89 GTR's come into the country. They are commonly known as cheque book car owners.

I would rather buy a stock car and build it up the way i wanted so if someone asks you something about it you actually know what you are talking about same way i would rather have a conversation with someone who built their car themselves that someone that bought someone elses ideas.

So you're pretty much advertising that people shouldn't buy your car that you're selling INASNT, they should guy buy a stock car and mod it themselves :devil:

Im in the process of buying a Supra as some of you know. The car was built for circuit racing by a guy I sort of know who has a good rep for quality work. While the car isnt EXACTLY what I would have done, it has probably 15-20k worth of mods I would have done myself anyway... I am now going to put some extra goodies onto it for 5k which will make it exactly what I wanted. The car was no more expensive than a standard supra so persnally I have saved myself a HELL of a lot of time, money and stress.

One important point to note... Supra 3.0 TT engine can reportedly take up to 500KW on standard internals, I wouldnt be so quick to rush into a modded car with stock internals that weren't so well engineered!

B :devil:

only because nobody was going to pay the ridiculous cost of a stock car + the value you spent on modifying it..

No because i would have ended up spending more stupid money on the new car i got also and the fact that i will have my license back in 4 months rather than 10 months so the car wont be sitting around doing nothing for as long

While this has been discussed in other threads. Personally I have no objection at all to "cheque book racers". Mechanics have to eat too... While I would like to be legit and "from da hood" and build my car from paperclips McGyver style. I really don't care at all.

While the nerd in me likes to ponder flow/spring rates, duty cycles and diameters. It is all just stuff to keep me amused when I am asleep or at work. If you spend your nights polishing your newly installed wastegate actuator might I suggest there is a neglected boyfriend, girlfriend or dog around the house you could perhaps spend some time with.

For me a car is about one thing, driving.

Given infinity dollars I would just buy Carrera GTs and lots of tyres...

Oh and a racetrack... and hire some mechanics... and a helicopter.

Oh and a jet plane and ummmm Jessica Alba

Sorry, I dont respect a guy i know who bought a fully worked tx3.  

The guy couldnt even tell me how his boost controller worked or how to adjust his bov.

At the same time though I purchased my 'line standard and have modified it myself. I know most things about my car, except my stupid damned bloody friggin boost controller is a mystery to me.

i gave it to my mechanic to install and tune. i've fiddled with the high boost pressure and now it wont boost on high setting at all... it's buggered - and all because i don't have a clue about it...

people don't have to have mechanical minds to enjoy a 'line, or a worked tx3.

OK, here's a thread I can get my teeth into considering I've been through it and learnt a lot!!

When I first considered my car, there weren't many if any GTRs in AU running 400+rwkw. In fact, the only one I can think of was GTR700 when it had 444awkw which was the benchmark for a street GTR.

I searched 13 months for my dead stock GTR and after I bought it, 2 weeks later it had a cat back exhaust and turbo timer on it. 6 months down the track it had the Tien suspension, a PowerFC and a 4" intercooler. As time went on, the mods got bigger and more expensive and then after owning the car for 14 months, the whole engine was stripped down and rebuilt. Not only did this build take a stupid period of time (total of 8 months), but it was inconvenient and very very costly. Keep in mind at this point, I was already heavily involved with Ice Performance and RacePace Motorsport and I was getting cheap labour rates. I know what my final bill was and I also know what the bill would have been for a normal person coming off the street.

Let me tell you here and now that if I had to do this whole thing again, I'd tell you that you'd be nuts to buy a stock car and build it up yourself. Besides the insanely high cost of doing it, the time saved by buying a built car and the conveneince of being able to jump straight into a fast/powerful/good looking car is worth the risk. If the engine on a powerful car blows, it's probably due to wear and tear which cannot be determined unless you pull the engine down regularly.

I take special care of my car as I have the access to the workshop, tools and people who can ensure that my car runs to the best of it's ability.

I assure you 617rwkw doens't come easy and even with this power, my best time down the 1/4 is only 10.47 due to other issues which now have to be sorted out. There will always be ongoing costs for maintenance and things that go bang. Although it doesn't happen all that often, I assure you a modded car will always require more money to maintain than a stocky, simply due to R&D from the original builder. We don't spend hundreds of millions of $$$ to R&D a car before we build it. We use a slightly modded version of someone elses formula in an effor to make it better. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. That's our R&D. I haven't added up how much I've spent on my car since the final build was done but I can assure you that the price I'm selling my car for is much much much less than what even I've put into it.

Maybe your friend wants a 617rwkw, 10.47@140MPH daily driver which has also won AutoSalons dyno challenge 2 years running and set an AutoSalon dyno record.

Sorry, I dont respect a guy i know who bought a fully worked tx3.

LOL im sure he doesnt care what you think...he too busy enjoying his car....if you dont enjoy working on cars then more power to the ppl that can afford to pay other.

I hate working on my car but enjoy playing with otther ppl cars....in the past i have butchered my car but dont have a garage anymore so have to now trust others and sadly pay them.

Buy a tweaked example you will save a motza, if there is something on the car that isnt quite your cup of tea, well remove it and sell it, that will help pay for whatever it is you want to strap on. So as long your happy with he model colour etc go for it.... you dont want a silver R32 GTST do you :jk:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky the prp block is supposed to be released next weekend 
    • Wow guys thank you very much for the HUGE info :-) @GTSBoy I have like 30 minutes if test drive with that car/engine and it not stalled once. IMO it ran very smooth so i guess it was not that bad(but asi i said it is stock) That atmo BoV is worse than no BoV or in my case or it is/will be the same? Cuz frankly i rather have little whooosh sound than that sututu 馃槃 But either way the less harmfull for engine/turbo the better(if the stock is not an option right away) Yeah about that rebuild i talk with guy who will be doing swap and custom pipes...i think i can get stock BoV or get aftermarket which will function the same. Yeah i looked at that R35 option and i try ask my mechanic more about that if he knows. The engine has stock ECU but i can get Nistune for it. On that stock it runs quite well...but i have limited time with it so rly dont know. Ecumaster is this https://www.ecumaster.com/  It is not some dodgy backyard ECU :-)  @MBS206 Yeah but it will be better to have Nistune than the completely stock ECU no? About that "same" atmo/no BoV. The drivebility would be the same? I dont know but i kinda guess that amto BoV would cause more problems than no BoV in my case? Or is the same? You just "change" one sound for the other? Yeah i read many many many topic about hurting the turbo. But no one know anybody that would 100% tell that his turbo/engine blows/get damaged by not running BoV. Of course turbo would be little happier IMO if it has BoV ..but if you do not trash i think i should be good. And as you can see iam already trying to get this right...just working what i have right now :-) Yeah iam kinda the same...i dont want nothing loud and frankly iam not liking that sututu noise that much 馃槃 i rather have little bit of "whooosh" or no sound at all. Of course in my case it si a completely another world when you came tu Turbo car with open air box and no BoV and you driving the N/A ...all i hear is engine. Here? I heard turbo/sucking and that sututu 馃槃 @Yeetus So in my case it is really no difference to run no BoV or some atmo BoV like GReddy FV2? The car would drive the same and has "the same" little problems? As i wrote above i kinda thinked that atmo BoV with stock MAF would cause more problems...but then again i dont know much about no BoV either :-)  So to avoid stalling i "cant" just put neutral on stop lights like from higher rpm? Or? Yeah iam already looking for ECU :-)  Yes iam at the same side with thar R35 MAF :-)  @Dose Pipe Sutututu Thank you i (my mechanic/tuner) will look into that) Guess iam taking the Nistune at least :-) 
    • Here's the workaround with Nistune I was talking about, just add in more timing on the decel table And play around with the fuel cut & recovery, it's enough to stop it from stalling on a decel  
    • Hi Apex and welcome! 
    • Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex.  Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out.  Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor.  Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper.  The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it.  Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm).  I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above.   Hope that helps Cheers Gary    
  • Create New...