Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r33 RB25 whining

Hey guys,

Recently bought an r33, pretty standard beside a FMIC, exhaust and a pod filter., but it is making this weird whining/metal sort of noise whenever you accelerate. I cant get a good video of it but i found someone who managed to, but dont visit the forum anymore so i cant ask them what it was!

Video is here

First turbo/import ive ever owned and my knowledge is pretty small when it comes to cars, and for the life of me i cant figure out what the sound is. Car still drives fine, boosts fine (no gauge yet but should be arriving tomorrow) but the noise is really annoying and can be heard over the engine while driving.

Any ideas? cheers

Edited by Aestysu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467958-r33-rb25-whining/
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Wait.  Is the noise independent of you twirling the steering wheel?

Nothing to do with the steering, its pretty much purely when i accelerate, and gets louder the more i give it.

Could be sitting in neutral hands out the window revving the car and it happens. 

Probably timing belt since that gets whiney and noisy if: 1- the belt is a gates racing or similar. 2 - is too tight. 3 - probably both. Take off the top timing belt cover (after you carefully remove the CAS) and tell us what you see. I'm guessing a blue belt.

Pull ancillary belts one at a time. I'm putting money on power steering pump or alternator bearing.

Remember: Fan belt also drives water pump so don't run the car too long with this one off

Edited by 89CAL
Extra Info

thanks guys ill have a look hopefully tomorrow, ran into another issue gotta fix that first.

was driving, then all of a sudden lost all power, and car starts hopping. pretty much undriveable and just jumps every few seconds in bursts. it idles and revs alright in neutral, and also does reverse fine, but as soon as i use the accelerator it just hops around. thinking coils misfiring or TPS?

ok so didnt fix the new issue and seems to be worse now. Car turns over and starts, then pretty much instantly stalls, if i manage to start it, it doesnt want to rev past 2500, at first though it was coils/spark plugs but didnt fix it, then found the 2500 limit, so im thinking air sensor.

Cleaned out the maf, didnt do anything, let the car idle while i packed up and stalled, and still wouldnt go past 2500. going to try a new one and hopefully that fixes it otherwise im stumped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...