Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

No real update to my build thread, because it's a shit build.

Doesn't have the following:

• Emtron
• Borg Warner EFR
• Pierburg Fuel Pumps
• ID injectors
• Race Pedigre

Only runs shit parts such as:

• Haltech (with no additonal boxes)
• Walbro pumps
• Bosch Motorsport injectors

In other news, looking for someone to respray the R33 shit box. Not a GT-R so no need for a hectic respray as it will get used on the track. Something of an OEM finish would be great around Sydney, my budget is about $5k but of course happy to pay a little more if able to get the rear guards cut and new slightly wider guards (from a different car or aftermarket) welded on.

I'm around the Cabramatta area, so anything near by would be good. Anyone got suggestions? I might pop into 2SUS for a chat and use that as a starting point/benchmark.

[No Crust Racing]

Sif not paint or wrap it yourself. 

[niZmO_Man]

China flares and rattle can.

[WantGTR]

pick one on Hollywood Drive brah

[r32-25t]

Prestige Motorsport only does his own car now, was talking to Steve not long ago

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

13 hours ago, WantGTR said:

pick one on Hollywood Drive brah

Any of your mates used them before? I know there's a few. Some dodgy looking some look half decent.

[WantGTR]

56 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Any of your mates used them before? I know there's a few. Some dodgy looking some look half decent.

i used to use Hollywood body repairs years ago when the asian dude owned it. it changed hands and has since shut down i think. Precision Autobody Repairs look like they do good work.

Its not in the area however Bellevue Bodyworks in Carlton do really nice work. A close friend has had his car resot'd there and they have done some small jobs for me in the past. Any further work id definitely be taking it to Bellevue Bodyworks.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

^

Cheers bro! Will go for a drive around a few shops in the shit box in a few weeks and have a chat to all of them. Looks like the R33 might end up looking less of a shit box and looking more like a well maintained dated old car with cheap shit parts on it.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Nothing too exciting, however got the Nz Wiring Trigger kit working. Turns out the Haltech Elite patch loom is wired to only receive the 120 degree input from the CAS. Took me a while to work that out with Matt from Haltech and Geoff from NZ Wiring.

Kudos to both, top dudes!

Some non-interesting footage of the trigger error count & engine running smoothly on the new trigger

 

[iruvyouskyrine]

My idea of running smoothly and yours are two different things ?

Whats your arming voltage set to currently? Also i thought geoff was making the swtich to hall effect sensors?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

41 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

My idea of running smoothly and yours are two different things ?

Whats your arming voltage set to currently? Also i thought geoff was making the swtich to hall effect sensors?

hahaha.. well it's running smoothly enough LOL

I have it roughly as follows:

•        0 RPM - 0.18volts
• 1000 RPM - 0.9 volts
• 2000 RPM - 1.5 volts
• 3000 RPM - 2.0 volts
• 4000 RPM - 3.0 volts (onwards is all the same)

** edit

I'll start driving the car around and pull logs so I can get the right arming voltages, also not too sure if Geoff will be moving to a hall effect sensor, the reluctor although "old school" is actually quite reliable

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Bought so more shit parts for the shit box. Couldn't afford fancy coils so opted in for some genuine Nissan stuff 

[iruvyouskyrine]

R35?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

18 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

R35?

Yeah man, Nissan life.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

New alignment ✔
New tyres - Nankang AR-1 in 265/35/18 ✔
New rotors - DBA4600 T3 ✔
New pads - Intima Type-D v2.0 ✔
New buckled guard - ?

Car does drive nicer and relaxed the caster a bit, had 8.5 degrees before which was a bit too extreme. Has 7 degrees now, and less strain on the LCA bushing.

Guard buckled when I was rolling them to get the car to clear the 18x9.5 +20 wheels with 265mm section tyres all round.

 

[No Crust Racing]

Should've just bolted on some small flares you spud. 

Car is looking good otherwise. 

 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

13 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Should've just bolted on some small flares you spud. 

Car is looking good otherwise. 

 

 

Should have not built the car lol

[No Crust Racing]

Don't be like that, it will be great when it's on track and you are enjoying it. 

 

 

[admS15]

Have you driven it on the street with those. The noise.. So when is it's maiden voyage to wakefield in it's new improved form.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

13 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Have you driven it on the street with those. The noise.. So when is it's maiden voyage to wakefield in it's new improved form.

A little bit yesterday, they seem to be pretty grippy when not even warm and the noise is still much quieter than how the car was before with cooked wheel bearings all round.

Has all new wheels bearings, new traction rods, new ball joints, new alignment so yeah - it's pretty quiet. Should be exciting once it's running properly, just spent all of yesterday night working out why the A/C wasn't triggering and when I earthed the input pin going into the ECU the FICD relay kept clicking and why that pin was actually drawing current. Turns out I didn't connect up the A/C thermister and for whatever reason that affects the entire A/C circuit. I was so tempted to just hook up an AVI into the Haltech and use a flick switch to enable the A/C lol

Race Car life, needs AC

Oh yeah, alignment specs for those wondering

Front

• 7 degrees of caster
• 1mm toe out each side
• -2.5 degrees of camber (turned out that way due to height)

Rear

• 5mm extended traction rods
• 0.5mm toe in each side (didn't go 2mm like before, as I'm hoping the traction rods will stop the ramp)
• -1.5 degrres of camber