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No real updates besides I am getting a new turbo setup and have bought a new N1 oil pump and moving my billet gears over to it. As of recent, brake light was always on too, turns out the "brake pedal stopper" snapped off so the switch wasn't pressed when the pedal was extended upwards. $11 part, coming soon, this is it btw:

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There's a cheaper clear one for $4.40 vs $11 this is, but yeah might crumble again so went for this one.

 

  • 2 weeks later...

No updates with the shit box, also note to all don't drive nice modern cars, you have even less reason to finish off your car lol. 

Had a SQ5 for a week and wow, just wow. Fast, fun, comfy, no lag, stock (less things to break). 

Took it on the beach too lol. 

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  • Like 2

Woah woah woah, I didn't say soft, I said changed.

 

I like me some stock daily comfort and wouldn't mind a euro as well. 

Remember, I did opt not to buy an R35 because the M4 ways heaps nicer. I just ended up buying another house instead of swapping cars. 

  • Like 1

Yeah hired car, it was so good.. And of course used launch control many times ?

Makes me want to flash the Tiguan and pop in a new downpipe/cat. 

Also, I've been meaning to ask... You're changing turbo due not suitable for skid pan, but did you end up taking it to a circuit to see how it went? I thought that was the main goal?

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  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
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