Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thickest Oil for gearbox ??

Hey Guys and Girls,

so a little bit ago, i had the clutch replaced in my R34, since i got it back from the mechanic the gearbox has felt more clunky (changing to second when its cold sometimes is really hard, just feels like i can feel the gears clunking together). not sure as to what rating oil he has put in gearbox, so i want to change it to something i know is thicker.

what is the thickest oil ? or what oil would you recommend i put in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468718-thickest-oil-for-gearbox/
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Are you sure that you need thicker oil to solve this problem?

Yeah i think the thicker oil is going to make the box feel a little bit better for the mean time until i can get around to getting it rebuilt, a rebuild is gonna cost me at least 2k or more maybe. so in the mean time i was thinking thicker oil to make it feel a bit better and maybe damage it less ?? cause i can feel like the cogs hitting each other and i dont think that can be good for it.

 

57 minutes ago, Hadouken said:

Gtt or gtr?

Maybe you should ask him what he used. If your oil is to think then it will feel shit while the box is cold.

GTT, i will give him a phone call and ask him, before the clutch being replaced the gearbox didn't feel as bad as it does now. so im guessing the new oil is a bit thinner then the old oil.

I live in orange so winter is rather cold here, and if the box is a pain while cold in summer then i am guessing its going to be worse in winter here.

6 minutes ago, Hadouken said:

If you put thicker oil in your box will suffer even worse when cold!

Feeling the synchros is not a issue. If it's making noises then it's an issue.

Put redline in it if you think it needs a rebuild

Yeah i can feel the synchros, not making any bad noises tho, if i roll along in 3rd it seems like it is going to pop out of gear.

so avoid thicker oil then, shall do.

redline lightweight shockproof ??

also cheers for the advice :)

It may also simply be a clutch adjustment problem. I'd suggest talking to your mechanic to see what they think too. Depending on the exact clutch and pressure plate, and how your pedal is adjusted it could either be a pedal adjustment or thrust bearing carrier length issue.

And also ask exactly what oil they put in, and perhaps check the oil level (open the filler and see if you can touch fluid when you stick your finger in there).

Its very unlikely your gearbox suddenly developed an issue the day the clutch was changed....

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Duncan said:

It may also simply be a clutch adjustment problem. I'd suggest talking to your mechanic to see what they think too. Depending on the exact clutch and pressure plate, and how your pedal is adjusted it could either be a pedal adjustment or thrust bearing carrier length issue.

And also ask exactly what oil they put in, and perhaps check the oil level (open the filler and see if you can touch fluid when you stick your finger in there).

Its very unlikely your gearbox suddenly developed an issue the day the clutch was changed....

I will check the oil level and go from there, and also ask him what oil he put in it.

 

i don't think it suddenly developed it, i think maybe the different oil made it feel bad and clunky, if that is possible ??

 

56 minutes ago, Dobz said:

^^ I agree with Duncan. Do you have to push the clutch solid to the floor to disengage it or change gears?

no the clutch disengages at top

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...