Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

xanavi.ru

Xanavi.ru seem to have available kits for Japanese to English conversions (including Australian, but not New Zealand, maps). Pricing seems ok - I am just wondering if anyone had any particular cautionary tales to tell in terms of them taking money and not dispatching, or sending the wrong things? I'm more than happy that I have the skills to remove and replace the unit - more concerned with whether or not I can trust the Estonian company.

Thoughts?

Cheers - Neil G

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/
Share on other sites

You need an installer to do it as far as I am aware. Each state of Aus had a guy that did it, and part of the process was him calling Russia/Estonia real time and them decoding a code that the car ECU output based on time and GPS coordinates - definitely did not seem to be something that you could do (or they would let you do) yourself. Things might have changed though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7807863
Share on other sites

Oh cool. Do you have a link/info? This might sway my decision to get a V36. I had been leaning toward buying an ADM Infiniti G37 due to the language limitations of the Jp system, but the price premium for them over the V36 is insane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7807865
Share on other sites

Heh - look at my first post. I am wondering if I can trust them. I would hate anything I say to be seen as the start of a circular web of trust. Someone I don't know put me onto them and I am trying to get some due diligence done. Their website has the info but you have to autotranslate and do a bit of digging.

 

Cheers - N

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7807866
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, talkiet said:

Heh - look at my first post. I am wondering if I can trust them. I would hate anything I say to be seen as the start of a circular web of trust. Someone I don't know put me onto them and I am trying to get some due diligence done. Their website has the info but you have to autotranslate and do a bit of digging.

 

Cheers - N

 

Do you have a price that you can share with us?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7807871
Share on other sites

Definittely changed... This particular option is to get sent a new head unit, already setup for English...


Oh? What about programming the BCM to accept the new headunit? If my memory serves me well, that's part of the process in the USDM workshop manual.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7807877
Share on other sites

Ohhhh, I just got another email from them and it's a bit clearer now and no-where near as good a deal as I thought. $790+$50 USD shipping. They send you a replacement main unit and you have to send them your unit. So it's $800 USD for their software still. Aaargh. [Edit - I read their email again - English is not their first language - but I know none of theirs! - it looks like they will give a credit for returning the unit you remove. Obviously that's how they get their stock of parts to flash the English onto. Maybe it's not such a bad deal. I have asked about the credit amount.]

Don't know about the BCM programming...

 

Cheers - N

 

 

Edited by talkiet
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7807910
Share on other sites

I had a look at the website and cant find anything your saying.

I have been installing the software for over 5yrs and have never heard of what your talking about. 

Maybe its to cater for english speaking countries other than ourselves that dont have installers. 

That price you quoted was fairly high for an english conversion.

Does it have anything to do with an australian map disk maybe.

Also i dont think there are many installers left in Australia apart from me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7808088
Share on other sites

On 1/30/2017 at 7:19 PM, talkiet said:

Ohhhh, I just got another email from them and it's a bit clearer now and no-where near as good a deal as I thought. $790+$50 USD shipping. They send you a replacement main unit and you have to send them your unit. So it's $800 USD for their software still. Aaargh. [Edit - I read their email again - English is not their first language - but I know none of theirs! - it looks like they will give a credit for returning the unit you remove. Obviously that's how they get their stock of parts to flash the English onto. Maybe it's not such a bad deal. I have asked about the credit amount.]

Don't know about the BCM programming...

 

Cheers - N

 

 

That's a bargain.

you'll be without a unit for a time but if that's not a problem...

I paid a lot more than that for Oz maps and English for my V36

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7808295
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, colin.ssc said:

High for english conversion? how much do you charge for 07 V36 Sedan conversion then? The last 2 people in Australia that I spoke to wanted $3k for supply and install. 

For some reason I thought we were talking about the v35 and getting maps. Its probably cheap then. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7808296
Share on other sites

Actually, I'm not going to go ahead... Being charged over $1000NZD for a pirated software upgrade is just something I can't in good conscience be part of. I'll continue struggling with the Japanese. MAYBE if it gave me navigation as well I could swallow my pride but just for an English translation? A pirated one? Nah...

Cheers - N

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468847-xanaviru/#findComment-7808313
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...