Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends what you want from your car, but if you want to keep it stock-ish, look for some good Nismo S-Tune suspension (no idea if they're available for your model). Or KYB dampers and Eibach/TEIN springs.

Basically something thats a bit stealth and won't be defected by VIC roads and street use.

Maybe a track day later down the line for fun.

Drifting looks fun but thats a totally seperate set up & prob cost big $$.

So what's going on with the suspension here?

Is is the HICAS eliminated spoke of earlier?

Is it roadworthy?

Looks a bit tired...well front looks tired, rear looks almost new.

 

IMG_1488349890.766108.thumb.jpg.b9ca14609baeabadc9da051bcef9bbce.jpg

IMG_1488349861.732645.thumb.jpg.13e479b146171a05e3c69043a6c7694c.jpgIMG_1488349877.649598.thumb.jpg.042c17e40ec0d6086c0579c6a357f0d3.jpg

 

nice HICAS junk has been eliminated, time for MCA Blue coilovers :)

Then a 1.5way LSD

Skip the anti roll bars, often incorrectly called sway bars. No need, just makes the car super twitchy. You need the slight roll for grip. I did the whole soft spring rates and stupid thick ARBs and the car was great for normal driving but on the track or at high speeds there would be no stability. Since then I've set both ARBs to the softest setting and run pretty stiff springs and the car handles very neutral.

  • Like 1

Will it pass a roadworthy in VIC with that eliminator kit on it? Or you gotta put it back to stock?
Looks expensive venture to get a roadworthy.

Anti roll bar upgrade, especially to adjustable ones, are great bang for buck. They help your suspension do the job its designed for, rather than fighting extra lateral force. The great thing is that they firm up cornering without the harshness that hard spring rates would give for a similar effect. Id suggest coilovers first, then new sway bars and front and rear tower bracing bars: will transform the handling

9 hours ago, mercyseat said:

Will it pass a roadworthy in VIC with that eliminator kit on it? Or you gotta put it back to stock?
Looks expensive venture to get a roadworthy.

That depends on what you mean by "roadworthy".

Assuming that you're talking about an annual/whatever mandated roadworthy by a day-to-day mechanic, there is every chance that he would not be bothered by the replacement of the HICAS components with stuff that deletes it totally.  You could go one step towards making it look like it is supposed to be there by rubbing an appropriate amount of grease and dirt onto all those bits to make them look like they are many years old.

If you're talking about taking it over the pits, like we have to here in SA at (very odd) intervals, then you may find the situation not quite as easy.  This is because the tech inspectors at the dept of transport usually are switched on and know what stuff is supposed to be on what cars.  They know that Skylines have HICAS because they've had 40000* defected Skylines go over the pits since they started coming into the country.  The reason that this is an issue is that modification to a steering system is not allowed unless it is properly engineered.  So this counts out even the simple HICAS lockbars, let alone the delete kits.  Having said that....I took an approach to your problem which is now proven to work, at least here in SA where the inspectors really are clever car blokes.  I transplanted a complete non-HICAS subframe and the appropriate other parts into my car.  Ripped out all the HICAS plumbing and other shit.  Looks like it was never there.  There are actually Skylines without HICAS, so unless you went looking very very closely, you wouldn't tell that my car had it to start with.  And it's all Nissan parts in the car, so it looks 100% legit.  And it passed inspection.

*That's actually only about 5000 cars, but 8 times each.

Of course, I haven't tested the alternative approach, which is to get a car inspected with a lock bar or delete kit.  It may be that they happily let them through.

I only use two mechanics that i know do a good job and both rebuild classics and/or race so there's no chance of it being ignored. Which i appreciate as i know the work done is quality.

VIC roads are quite tough now and they take photo's of the car's too for roadworthy,  they sift through everything.

Is it an expensive venture to remove the HICAS  eliminator for rego? What part's do i need to buy if any to restore it to stock?

 

 

Edited by mercyseat

DO NOT remove that kit before you try getting a roadworthy.

If you do have to put HICAS stuff back on you'd be better off wrecking the car for parts than trying to put it back to stock.  To put it back to stock, all you'll need is the HICAS rack and tie rods.  But it will suck more than the Mardis Gras.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...