Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, WantGTR said:

How did you clean the timing cover/intake? Just a quick sandblast?

Yeah, that's the one man. I have access to a bead blasting cabinet. It's awesome for aluminum, although it's a fairly fine grit, doesn't do a great job ripping painted surfaces back. It will do it, just takes alot more time. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Another update,

Finished modifying the OEM Astra P/S pump bracket to fit the Pulsar, will clear everything great and looks quiet OEM as well :)

 

Finished modifying the bracket to suit

 

ou3fMPIl.jpg

 

Looks like it's supposed to live there

 

P9tJE1Il.jpg

 

After a beadblast and a coat of paint

 

51WBeEjl.jpg

 

V8A8VmWl.jpg

 

I'll make some lines up to suit this weekend. My Aeroflow order arrived today :)

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

A bit slow on the updates guys, although been slow on progress too.

Anyhow, P/S setup is plumbed in, a few things to tidy up, hose clamps on the return line and waiting on some clamps to secure the pressure line to the P/S rack mounting points.

Oh and wire the unit in of course :)

 

Here's a couple of happy snaps.

 

cpUIksyl.jpg

 

IbHW68hl.jpg

 

0pxsvKcl.jpg

 

lRUDH4Dl.jpg

 

7yLagPpl.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

Another update, Been busy doing a heap of wiring in the N14, the relay box, which was on the RH side of the engine bay (Drivers side) was in the way,

That happened to be where I wanted to setup my remote oil filter/thermostat for my oil cooler.

So naturally it had to go.

On closer inspection there wasn't a whole lot of relays in that box that I was actually going to use, so with the help of a leco mate of mine we stripped the loom back to basics, assessed what we actually needed and the best way it should be routed.

 

We can to the conclusion that the Relay box was redundant, as was the fusible link box on the opposite side of the engine bay.

There is a few relays I did still require, plus added a few extra's so the N14 was brought up to date in the way the headlights were wired.

This is the relay box that I am left with.
Circuit breakers will replace the fusible links to keep the whole system simple.

 

This was the hole I decided to utilise.


PaKqowSl.jpg

 

Made a bracket/brace to mount the relay box into.

 

ufj3VpUl.jpg

 

Finished product (painted the primed section of chassis rail where the battery tray was fitted too)

 

t0ocdzIl.jpg

 

With the lid on.

 

gFi5UPNl.jpg

 

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, another update.

 

Started setting up my oil cooler setup.

I'm using an Aeroflow AF64-4112 which is an all in one thermostatic oil filter block.

Had to make up a bracket to mount it, so decided to whip out the CAD software (Cardboard Aided Design)

Came up with this:

mTzEq7Hl.jpg

 

AuUUEkVl.jpg

 

icWzWl8l.jpg

 

Once that was made and I was happy with the fit, I bent this up:

V4WrVeAl.jpg

 

RNR7UDHl.jpg

 

hdgQKwfl.jpg

 

iFTuXeOl.jpg

 

 

Then it was onto the oil cooler mounting.

Went with a 10 row Aeroflow oil cooler. They're rated to 10 bar working pressure, 25 bar burst pressure SR20VE oil pumps are very high pressure and it isn't unusual to see pressure around the 8 - 9 bar.

Also used the Aeroflow mounting kit which made mounting the cooler very simple.

 

Had to put a bend in the center vertical support to give the oil cooler clearance, put it in the spot where the reo bar will cover it up.

injGKySl.jpg

 

9imiLQml.jpg

 

Y7Wp8Bwl.jpg

 

I am waiting on some black bolts to show up for the oil cooler, will tie in much nicer.

RUg20kMl.jpg

  • Like 2

After paint:

 

waGPl63l.jpg


I've got some paint to fix up the gouged up paint in this picture too. It was caused by the power steering reservoir being removed to access the oil filter, however unfortunately the OEM NIssan wire hose clamp was scratching the paint up every time it was removed...
 

2tlcfbul.jpg

  • Like 1

Super neat build mate. Very impressive attention to detail and everythinf you are doing compliments the na ethos - light weight, minimise losses from ancilliaries and rev it to the moon. Having had an sr20de n14 built for hill climbs and street sprints i have a soft spot for this. Mine was the same colour but a q instead of sss. Sold it last year after ten years of daily driving and regular competition use - half a million kms and still unopened block, perfect compression and didn't use a drop of oil.

I have an nm35 stagea with the vq25det and awd now which is its own fun but nowhere near as reliable!

Will be following your progress.

9 hours ago, Furball1982 said:

Super neat build mate. Very impressive attention to detail and everythinf you are doing compliments the na ethos - light weight, minimise losses from ancilliaries and rev it to the moon. Having had an sr20de n14 built for hill climbs and street sprints i have a soft spot for this. Mine was the same colour but a q instead of sss. Sold it last year after ten years of daily driving and regular competition use - half a million kms and still unopened block, perfect compression and didn't use a drop of oil.

I have an nm35 stagea with the vq25det and awd now which is its own fun but nowhere near as reliable!

Will be following your progress.

Thanks for the words mate. Appreciate the feedback :)

In my opinion they are quiet an underrated and often overlooked car, I have had a huge amount of fun in mine so far, can't wait to get this chapter finished and get it running again though :)

Just trying to knock over a small project every week to keep it progressing forwards. Currently waiting on a heap of OEM coloured trace wire
to save changing the schematic.

 

500k kms is a testament to your maintenance schedule as well as the car mate, some guys seem to have all sorts of trouble with SR's, although I believe alot of it comes down to a bit of mechanical sympathy.

 

Ahh awesome, does the Stag have a build thread?

It was maintained meticulously and oil change done every three months.  Ancilliaries did fail as did gearboxes but thats to be expected. Apart from putting in cams and adjustable cam gears, the motor was untouched.

I would absolutely agree that they are under rated. On a tight and twisty track theres not much for the same money that can hang with them. 

No build thread on the stagea, much of the work done has been to bring it back up to a good standard. It was somewhat neglected possibly due to the cost of parts, a lot is interchangable with z33 and g35 platforms but some stuff, particularly some suspension components is unique to the platform. Which tended to be what needed attention.

Its got the basics, coilovers, a 3 Inch stainless exhaust, custom bellmouth dump, big front mount to deal with heatsoak, modified wastegate actuator controlled by an ebc. A bigger trans cooler to suplement the factory one. In the middle of acquiring parts for a 370z front brake upgrade at the moment so i can enjoy it at some street sprints and the like.

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

Some more updates, been busy making up brackets and doing a bit more wiring.

I am using an Aeroflow AF49-1012. Only issue is that the N14 and GTiR pump cradle is alot bigger that N15. In all my research, the answer for this 'issue' was to just cable tie the new smaller, high flow pump into the cradle....

I wasn't ever going to do that..

So long story short, Walbro make an in-tank fuel pump insulator, this one worked out ot be perfect. Pump sits in there very snug.

 

BSv1Bx3l.jpg

 

e2YnRt3l.jpg

 

yc7Fmg9l.jpg

 

wDV0WPOl.jpg

 

Found a spot for my electric water pump controller. It is a bit of an awkward size to mount in/on or around the dash without being hard to access. So decided the glove box will have to do. Made this mount for it, the loom will be going out the back of the glove box via a wiring grommet and the bracket will be painted black, of course.

247fQUEl.jpg


Then lastly a bit of a bigger update, finally have my ECU mounted:

This is where the OEM ECU lived. The Wideband module sits underneath the Haltech as well.

The brackets will be removed and painted, black as well. I've still got a heap of wiring ahead of me...

Thanks for reading.

 

jOQFX2Nl.jpg

 

PtGxnNcl.jpg

 

 

 

  • Like 1
12 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Great work. Wish I had looked at this build earlier.
All the detail is cool. Going to be quick with that VE motor

Thanks for reading :) 

It should be a fun little all rounder once the engine is in, shouldn't be too far off. Just a bit more wiring and I can drop the engine in. 

Wow, awesome progress! I love the attention to detail and especially your bracket making abilities (which I envy).

Mine usually is just flat bar from Bunnings hit with a flap disc lol

 

9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Wow, awesome progress! I love the attention to detail and especially your bracket making abilities (which I envy).

Mine usually is just flat bar from Bunnings hit with a flap disc lol

 

Thanks man!!

Haha, alot of time in those brackets dude! A few were remade when I wasn't happy with them. 

Thanks for the words though dude, much appreciated ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...