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Hey Guys,

This is only a quick update:

I'm elbows deep in wiring, although really enjoying it. Slowly tidying up this loom, I thought I'd share a progress shot:

 

mmg2oeNl.jpg

 

Also, the fuse/relay box is completely terminated now, here is what it looks like on the inside:

 

7lWdX60l.jpg

Thanks for reading :)

  • Like 5

Another small guys, finally have the oil cooler lines ran, was a fair amount of trial and error to get them to clear everything, however I'm happy with the end result. Just need a small amount of spiral wrap to use where the hoses go past the radiator/support panel.

There is only a handful more jobs to go, then the engine can finally go in ?

As always, thanks for reading :)

 

QN1aNQMl.jpg

 

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0IHUy6ml.jpg

  • Like 2
On 5/29/2019 at 8:56 PM, TimmyMA70 said:

Hey Guys,

This is only a quick update:

I'm elbows deep in wiring, although really enjoying it. Slowly tidying up this loom, I thought I'd share a progress shot:

 

mmg2oeNl.jpg

 

Also, the fuse/relay box is completely terminated now, here is what it looks like on the inside:

 

7lWdX60l.jpg

Thanks for reading :)

The fuse panel, is that an OEM part rewired, or did you buy a bare fuse/relay panel? 

12 hours ago, MBS206 said:

The fuse panel, is that an OEM part rewired, or did you buy a bare fuse/relay panel? 

The fuse panel is a bare panel which I bought terminals and seals for. 

I looked at a few OEM options, however I couldn't find anything as compact and neat as what this system offered. Plus it's IP67 rated - basically water proof. 

If you're interested this is their website: 

https://store.chiefenterprises.com/bric

  • Thanks 1
1 hour ago, TimmyMA70 said:

The fuse panel is a bare panel which I bought terminals and seals for. 

I looked at a few OEM options, however I couldn't find anything as compact and neat as what this system offered. Plus it's IP67 rated - basically water proof. 

If you're interested this is their website: 

https://store.chiefenterprises.com/bric

Thanks! 

Just had a quick look, will read more later but that stuff is sooo cheap! Definitely of interest for a project of mine :)

3 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Thanks! 

Just had a quick look, will read more later but that stuff is sooo cheap! Definitely of interest for a project of mine :)

Very cheap, although excellent quality too ? They're definitely a good thing. 

 

Glad I could help. Any more questions, feel free to ask. 

  • Thanks 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys,
 

Been flat-out lately, hence why this hasn't been updated in a while. I have been helping a fellow Pulsar owner out with a few mods on his IPRA VE swapped N15 SSS. Removed his 2.5" exhaust and made a 3" 304 grade stainless steel system along with a SoCal 4-2-1 megaphone header.

A couple of snaps:

tmBfOZOl.jpg

4USiDVTl.jpg

C6PxuECl.jpg

9ex9ejXl.jpg

I've made a 3" intake and rebushed the entire car for him too, was still fitted with the original Nissan bushes 300k kms old...?
 

  • Like 2

An update on my N14 also:

 

Engine is in!!

JDN5YVQl.jpg

 

IJUcklBl.jpg

 

Fitted the gearbox up too, just a mock up at this stage, I haven't fitted flywheel and clutch yet:

 

19g69m3l.jpg

 

Gearbox went it pretty well, although the Elec P/S bracket will need a slight trim on the corner. needs approx 5mm off it to ensure I don't have to remove the bracket when fitting/removing the gearbox

Not bad, considering it was a guesstimate!

IyN4E3c.jpg

 

q6aivzE.jpg

 

The clearance to the DBW T/B isn't fantastic, although using solid poly engine mounts all round, the engine shouldn't move around a whole lot. Approx 20 - 25mm clearance. If I have fouling issue's I'll make up an adapter plate to move the TB around at a slight angle.

j7LQYqs.jpg

LEQRNuz.jpg

  • Like 6

While you still have it off the road have a good look at the rear mount and see if you can reinforce it. I had the energy suspension poly mounts and custom bronze shifter linkage bushings and managed to shear the rear mount where the linkage pivot/support is welded to it. So there is definately some movement there.

I never did improve it, just replaced with a spare mount but i feel that a reinforced solid rear mount, with a solid dogbone at the front in conjunction with the remaining mounts being poly would have had less movement and stress imparted to the mount, with some sympathy to nvh.

3 hours ago, Furball1982 said:

While you still have it off the road have a good look at the rear mount and see if you can reinforce it. I had the energy suspension poly mounts and custom bronze shifter linkage bushings and managed to shear the rear mount where the linkage pivot/support is welded to it. So there is definately some movement there.

I never did improve it, just replaced with a spare mount but i feel that a reinforced solid rear mount, with a solid dogbone at the front in conjunction with the remaining mounts being poly would have had less movement and stress imparted to the mount, with some sympathy to nvh.

Yeah right. I can't say I have heard of that happening before.

I know a few of the APRA guys abuse the gear pretty hard and have broken some things that has never been broken before, even shifter rods. 

Was that under normal street conditions? 

Ten years as a daily driver and tracked various places about a dozen times a year. Hill climbs, street sprints, drags and such.

I wasnt exactly easy on it at the track. I went through four boxes as well. Axle tramp is a real bitch.

2 hours ago, Furball1982 said:

Ten years as a daily driver and tracked various places about a dozen times a year. Hill climbs, street sprints, drags and such.

I wasnt exactly easy on it at the track. I went through four boxes as well. Axle tramp is a real bitch.

Yeah gotcha. Wow, 4 boxes is impressive! ? 

On 01/07/2019 at 5:14 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Way too cool, keep up the good work!

Thanks man! Sorry, I missed your comment the other day!

I'm itching to finish it, although have to reign myself back in and just remind myself to take my time with it. :)

21 minutes ago, TimmyMA70 said:

Took a quick snap this afternoon. 

Almost finished the body loom for the headlights, indicators, foglights and parkers ?

 

gSvjCW8l.jpg

 

BuPIjo4l.jpg

That is some VERY clean and tidy wiring! 

Where did you get the wrap? 

  • Like 1
15 hours ago, MBS206 said:

That is some VERY clean and tidy wiring! 

Where did you get the wrap? 

Thanks man! Really appreciate the words. Alot of time has gone into it, as with any project. 

 

For the body loom I used the self closing braided wrap from Jaycar. Which is pretty good stuff and easy to work with. 

 

The engine loom is getting a higher temp rated braid, obviously a bit hotter around the engine than on top of the chassis rails etc. 

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Good job. I did engine harness only... Couldn't be bothered doing the rest of the engine bay or even paying someone to do it emoji14.png

Thanks man ?

 

With the extensive rewiring with my fuse box, I had to reloom and conduit the body loom after stripping all the redundant wiring out if it anyhow. So decided, no time like the present ?

26 minutes ago, TimmyMA70 said:

Thanks man! Really appreciate the words. Alot of time has gone into it, as with any project. 

 

For the body loom I used the self closing braided wrap from Jaycar. Which is pretty good stuff and easy to work with. 

 

The engine loom is getting a higher temp rated braid, obviously a bit hotter around the engine than on top of the chassis rails etc. 

Thanks, I'll have a sneak peak. 

I'm meant to be doing the dodgy budget build to just get mine going but this is Such a clean build that it's inspiring, and I'm thinking I should take the time to properly mount and clip things, and even give it a respray :(

  • Haha 1

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