Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I still think the complete 26 top end is the go . If you look at RB20/25/26 heads on the inlet side you'll find numerous detail changes to suit their application . I believe the bolt patterns are different because of access to the fasteners to assemble it all .

As for inlet system development I'll bet any money that Nissan put more into developing the RB26 inlet (as a package) than GReady ever could .

Cheers A .

im sure alot of research did go into the gtr plenum, im going to stick with it for the moment and see how it goes, then i can tell u of the results that i have seen ok steve and others. I would like to get the greddy one but already have the gtr one so im going to see what i can make outta it.

Agree with discoepotato. Very good statement about Nissan. So true as well. A lot of people think that aftermarket stuff is the be-all and end-all of car developement. None of these guys would have any idea what its like behind the doors of an OEM facility.

Agree with discoepotato. Very good statement about Nissan. So true as well. A lot of people think that aftermarket stuff is the be-all and end-all of car developement. None of these guys would have any idea what its like behind the doors of an OEM facility.
Don't be dumb !!

When Nissan were developing the GTR plenum, they had the same restrictions as they have with everything else they look into when developing a car......Accountants not being the least of their problems, they have to optimise design parameters to suit broad conditions of use. An aftermarket developer, like GReddy, doesn't have to comply with emissions design criteria, and their targeted performance parameters are a heck of a lot narrower than Nissan's ever were.

It's common knowledge that the GTR plenum has a flow problems with Nº1 & 6 cylinders, but I'd love to see evidence of the flow test results you claim to have heard.

Don't be dumb !!

When Nissan were developing the GTR plenum, they had the same restrictions as they have with everything else they look into when developing a car......Accountants not being the least of their problems, they have to optimise design parameters to suit broad conditions of use. An aftermarket developer, like GReddy, doesn't have to comply with emissions design criteria, and their targeted performance parameters are a heck of a lot narrower than Nissan's ever were.

It's common knowledge that the GTR plenum has a flow problems with Nº1 & 6 cylinders, but I'd love to see evidence of the flow test results you claim to have heard.

I have done the flow tests, what would you like to know? Let me start the ball rolling, we saw none, zero, zilch, not one cracker, nothing, SFA improvement from testing the GReddy plenum on a GTR inlet and cylinder head at airflows equivalent to 750 bhp.

So if you spend your $1500 on a Greddy plenum and I spend my $1500 on something else, my car will be faster until we get to 750 bhp. And even over that the difference is nowhere near as significant as $1500 worth of other stuff.

Put it simply, personally I have demonstrably better ways to spend my money.

I have done the flow tests, what would you like to know?  Let me start the ball rolling, we saw none, zero, zilch, not one cracker, nothing, SFA improvement from testing the GReddy plenum on a GTR inlet and cylinder head at airflows equivalent to 750 bhp.

So if you spend your $1500 on a Greddy plenum and I spend my $1500 on something else, my car will be faster until we get to 750 bhp.  And even over that the difference is nowhere near as significant as $1500 worth of other stuff.

Put it simply, personally I have demonstrably better ways to spend my money.

Sk,

The original post was about putting a GTR Plenum on a RB25 ? Not a GTR? what are your thoughts on that ?

SK,

I don't doubt for a second that the GReddy Plenum, in either RB25 or RB26 applications, only comes into it's own after a certain level of airflow is required, nor do I doubt that the OEM designs are good ones, but I'd still love to see the figures so as to appreciate just how futile the whole argument really is.

Like BBQ though, I'd like to know your POV regards the RB26 plenum on an RB25.......

*mod hat on* Keep it clean guys... *mod hat off*

I did some research on the greddy plennums and found that stock RB25 unit was good up to 250rwkw.. I was going to buy a greddy unit but found my self wondering why none of the worked GTST and GTT's at tokyo autosalon had them.

The stock unit is under appreciated.

While I agree the stock unit is more than capable of supporting decent horsepower, I think the main difference is how it makes the horsepower. Ever since I've had my Greddy manifold on my midrange power has dramatically increased, and I'm yet to even see other cars match my dyno graph for average power.

Why not tell us who you are SK so we can see if you are what you claim to be as you have posted a few Facts that have been anything but so i feal its time you name your self.

Steve the people that I want to know, know. The problem is if I tell EVERYONE, I will get hundreds of retail calls. As you know, I am not in the retail business, I help some people out, particularly when they have an interesting problem, but that's it. I already get 30+ PM's per week and I reply to every single one. I don't make any money out of it, I don't charge anything, I don't have anything to sell.

I made the mistake about 3 years ago on another forum, one that I have lots of experience in, more than Skylines in fact. But I got pestered so much I had to change my phone number. I no longer contribute to that forum. I don't want the same to happen here.

I promise you this, next time I am in Perth with the race team, I will drop in and pay you a visit. I know where you are in Welshpool, just up from the Leach Highway. Will I need to bring a body guard? :uhh:

While I agree the stock unit is more than capable of supporting decent horsepower, I think the main difference is how it makes the horsepower. Ever since I've had my Greddy manifold on my midrange power has dramatically increased, and I'm yet to even see other cars match my dyno graph for average power.

Let me apologise for this post before I start, but regular readers will know why....

Paul where did you get the term "average power"? From ME, that's where you got it from, I introduced that terminology to this forum. Before I explained it, you didn't even know what it was. You didn't even know why it was important, much the less how to calculate it. Don't bother, I have the posts to prove it.

So don't try the

"I'm yet to even see other cars match my dyno graph for average power"
, without even trying I found 20 on here that shoot on it from a great height.

Let's get down to facts.....

Ever since I've had my Greddy manifold on my midrange power has dramatically increased,

I simply don't believe you, show me the before and after dyno graphs and prove that the ONLY change was that from the standard manifold to the Greddy. You and I both know you can't make that claim, you changed lots of things, not to mention tune at the same time. Maybe Steve's brilliant tuning gave the increase in midrange and it would have been even greater with the standard inlet manifold.

Time to apologise again for this post, but sometimes ya just gotta say it. :fart:

Sydneykid & Steve SST - how old are you both? Its clear you have differing opinions on various issues but your constant arguements and bickering is getting a little old now.

How about giving it a rest and concentrating on continuing to offer the fantastic tech info that both of you have been providing to SAU?

Sydneykid & Steve SST - how old are you both? Its clear you have differing opinions on various issues but your constant arguements and bickering is getting a little old now.

How about giving it a rest and concentrating on continuing to offer the fantastic tech info that both of you have been providing to SAU?

Hi Blitz, I am sorry if you are offended by reasoned discussion, well at least my half of it is. I know from experience that you can put two circuit race engineers in a room and they will both have differing opinions on many subjects. I had 2 of them in heated argument last weekend over whether Penske or Ohlins were better.

What am I supposed to do? If I stay silent, it is taken as agreement, if I put forward a rational argument , I am accused of bickering. :freak:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...