Jump to content
SAU Community

Newbie in skyline scene, fuel consumption guidance

Bob Virk
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bob Virk Explorer

Bob Virk

Posted
Posted
Newbie in skyline scene, fuel consumption guidance

Hi guys um new in skyline scene recently bought r33 gtst 1997 and its fuel consumption is too high guys I am shocked it should not be this much my car only do 250 km per tank (55litre) it's largely stock car not bigger injectors or stuff it's everything is factory , motor is in fair condition too only 140 km on the clock but I don't understand why it's too much fuel sucker . It's turbo is not in good condition that's only thing I can notice. Does each skyline sucks fuel like mine? Some guidelines please guys thanks.

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

It is using too much. You should be able to get around 350-400km from 55ltr for a stock gtst. I would be getting the 02 sensor checked/replaced and checking/replacing spark plugs (ngk bcpr6es) no need for fancy expensive plugs, may as well put fresh oil in just for good measure so you know its been done. If bad fuel economy persists, you will need to look further.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Clean AFM
Clean injectors
Make sure you have a fresh air filter (oiled panel/pod = nah)
Spark plugs as above (not the ones with -11, because you'll have to gap them to 0.8mm). You might have weak coil packs
What ECU? What other mods?
Check fuel tank for split hose (you would have smelt it)
Make sure handbrake or any other calipers aren't dragging (this one is pretty quick to check, you would've noticed it straight away)
How does it drive in traffic?
How heavy is your right foot?

My GT-R averaged 12-14L/100km in traffic.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

As above plus measure in Litres per 100km so you're not guessing. If you are boosting a lot you can easily suck 15 litres per hundred ...best I ever got on a trip was about 10L/100 but round town 12 - 14 sounds about right.

  • 1 month later...
Bob Virk Explorer

Bob Virk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi guys um back with same issue I have replaced spark plugs nd splitfire coil packs, clean AFM but car still sucking fuel same way as it was before. In the morning I start engine just stall sometimes or it spins slowly first couple of rounds then it's goes smooth. Seems like motor has breathing difficulties but not sure what it is. People talking about AAC sensor duno where it's located or what it's job . My car has front facing plenum, front mount inter cooler other than that it's stock car r33 series 2 . Any guidance would be appropriate thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...