Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 gtst Daily

33easy
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

The development path you're on looks well thought out, and should be proving cost effective and fun.

Look at a HICAS lock bar, and a 1.5 or 2 way diff centre next.  Makes a massive difference to handling and power down capabilities.

  • Like 1
33easy Contributor

33easy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, Dale FZ1 said:

Look at a HICAS lock bar, and a 1.5 or 2 way diff centre next.  Makes a massive difference to handling and power down capabilities

The lock bar is definitely on my list, any recommendations? And what does a 1.5/2 way diff centre do?

vxsr33 Proficient

vxsr33

Posted
Posted
The lock bar is definitely on my list, any recommendations? And what does a 1.5/2 way diff centre do?
Go with a Hicas eliminator kit if you can. The lock bar can still develop a bit of play i believe. 1.5/2 way allows you to transmit equal torque between both rear wheels and will give you a lot more traction. Makes the car more predictable aswell. Google is your friend.
  • Thanks 1
GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, vxsr33 said:

Go with a Hicas eliminator kit if you can. The lock bar can still develop a bit of play i believe

The lock bar won't have any play, but it only replaces the Hicas steering rack, and still uses the stock tie rod ends & ball joints. This is where the play usually develops. An eliminator replaces these with new arms & bushes.

vxsr33 Proficient

vxsr33

Posted
Posted
The lock bar won't have any play, but it only replaces the Hicas steering rack, and still uses the stock tie rod ends & ball joints. This is where the play usually develops. An eliminator replaces these with new arms & bushes.
I don't mean the lock bar itself, i mean the hicas tie rods can develop some play in them.
Elim kit seems to be the better option imo, but lock bar is easy to install and easily reversible.
Both of my hicas tie rods had play in them so it was more cost effective to install a delete kit.
33easy Contributor

33easy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/9/2017 at 2:02 PM, vxsr33 said:

Elim kit seems to be the better option imo, but lock bar is easy to install and easily reversible.

Thanks for the info guys, I would probably go lock bar just to see if I like it (cuz its reversible) and then sort out an eliminator kit later.

As for the diff that would probably be further down the road, as right now she's just a street car :)

So I got the new bar on... bad news is it isn't colour matched. Will be a little while before I can get it back to the painter to get it sorted. I like the overall look though, should look good when I get the GTR wing on.

newbar.jpg

  • 1 month later...
33easy Contributor

33easy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So about a month after I buy my fuel pump brand new, it decides to commit honourable seppuku. Was easy enough to replace as I had another walbro 255 lying around. Reused the same wiring and everything so its definitely the pump! Pretty strange for a pump to die brand new like that but shit happens I guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

I also had to siphon out some fuel as the tank was full and I didn't want to get everything saturated. Found out that siphoning with a garden hose is HARD and P98 tastes terrible... :7_sweat_smile: i  would recommend replacing the pump when you have half a tank or less.

Also attended an SAU event which was a cruise up Putty Road from Windsor to Singleton. I had a great day and was really happy with how the car performed :)

Fuelpumpcollage.thumb.jpg.87add5422267ae4abbaa27091725365a.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...