Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Exemption for high power vehicle

Hey guys, not really sure if I'm posting in the right spot. But whatever, hopefully get a response. 

Im aware this topic has been talked about numerous amounts of times, however nothing really relates to my situation. 

 

I have bought an R34 GTT off my dad for super cheap, without really thinking of the turbo restrictions for P-platers. I'm aware there is a high power vehicle exemption and I was inquiring if my situation could be valid for it or if I can obtain some sort of exemption. 

I live in Townsville QLD, I am currently in the ARMY. It is the only vehicle I have, and I can't really afford to be buying random cars here and there to suit my p- plates, regardless of whether it was 500$ or $5000. It's merely to get me back and forth from work and I can't afford another car.

I live 20km away from the base and there is no public transport whatsoever. Taxis and ubers are costing me a tone as well. I already have bills to pay as well as support my family (Mrs) and this is creating extreme financial hardship. Driving would be so much easier however I believe my car is restricted because it has a turbo and 132kw to the tone. I also have to work irregular hours, and I get called in literally around the clock for rehursal and so on etc.. 

Hopefully there is a solution to my problem? 

 

Cheers fellas. 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471051-exemption-for-high-power-vehicle/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Sell car for tidy profit.

Buy cheap car and diamond ring for wife.

 

Get a bj.

Probably the best advice on this forum.

 

I doubt anyone here is going to know how your "circumstances" are going to be treated by QLD transport. Your best chance is just applying, have you read the form?

They seem to be keen on it being the only car "reasonably" available and financial hardship and lack of other transport, which you've indicated as being a problem. Get an ARMY lawyer or your boss to write a letter about your requirement and times to be at work. Spin the ownership of the car as being gifted by your dad cause you couldn't afford to buy one making it the only reasonable option. Done.

Who knows maybe they'll feel patriotic and approve it based on your dedication to protecting this country.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...