Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For anyone reading and thinking of getting a competition clutch, go Google Competition Clutch Explode, Competition Clutch Problems, issues etc.

If you're on a budget and poor like most of us, get a NPC 10" Carbotic clutch. Pedal effort is softer than a stock clutch and there's about 1.7 to 1.8 tonnes of clamping force. Yes they may be Exedy parts in those clutches but they're completely different to your standard Exedy Sports range clutches.

If you have coin go Nismo Twin

 

  • Like 1
Are there list prices anywhere or do you just call them direct?

I think golebys website has prices, used to anyway. For your application a single organic npc will do the job. Unless your planning to go for 350-400rwkw. My single npc is handling 310 easily and has copped plenty of abuse, still feels perfect other than a noisy thrust bearing. I would suggest using a genuine nissan thrust bearing rather than the npc supplied one.
  • Like 1
13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

For anyone reading and thinking of getting a competition clutch, go Google Competition Clutch Explode, Competition Clutch Problems, issues etc.

If you're on a budget and poor like most of us, get a NPC 10" Carbotic clutch. Pedal effort is softer than a stock clutch and there's about 1.7 to 1.8 tonnes of clamping force. Yes they may be Exedy parts in those clutches but they're completely different to your standard Exedy Sports range clutches.

If you have coin go Nismo Twin

 

I also have the NPC 10" clutch with NPC's lightened steel flywheel - I was very dubious of the benefit of a lightened flywheel - after all, the gearbox/diff/wheels hang off it...

...well it made a significant difference in 1st and 2nd...I hadn't factored in the gearing available at "the front end" of the gearbox - now I understand..

NPC was an easy choice for me, as they have a great reputation and are based in Brisbane, Australia like me...but the OP @HCD_Velcra is in Germany...

... @HCD_Velcra you guys have crazy tune up shops that surely can recommend an appropriate locally available clutch for 400HP - if not, Nismo twin plate:14_relaxed:

cheers

Mike

PS - typically Nismo stuff is very good, it's not just a label - if you lived over here then I'd recommend NPC

PPS - as others have said, your 400HP target is at the limit of organic clutches - once you move to other materials the take-up/feel moves towards how a light switch operates (ie on/off). My NPC organic clutch holds 315hp no problem, and the takeup feels like a normal car. I'm sure you can source similar in Germany.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
    • Good old Orange Park hey... 😛   f**k I miss that race track
    • lo, it was a death trap. Good times. Got any Fatz Drift Day DVDs still available?
    • Yes, overthinking. Many PS reserviors are completely opaque. Our Skyline ones, for example. Have to remove lid, peak inside, swirl the dipstick, try to remember how to read it, etc etc. Normal. Radiator overflows are often sufficiently opaque and scunged up that you can't see the true level inside anyway, and have to open and have a peak. Besides which, I replaced the (massively expensive, even back then) plastic overflow in my Alfa GTV, back in the '90s with a stainless one that I had a good fabricator make up to be dimensionally same-same, that looks remarkably similar to the Bogan's Moroso one above, and I never suffered any particular paranoia that I didn't know how much coolant was in it.
    • Looks great, but I'm always concerned that it makes it difficult to see what level the fluids are at. Am I overthinking this?
×
×
  • Create New...