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HELP PLZ! R32 GTR Idle gets lumpy when car is hot.

Hey guys my apologies for starting an other idle thread.But I have been searching for a few days and can't get an exact answer.

the car is a 91 GTR with very light mods. N1 apexi exhaust up to the stock front pipe. Hashimoto radiator 

Yellow Jacket coil packs

hks oil filter relocation kit

and HKS pod intakes

Recently replaced my AFMs with APH AFMs

The Problem- the car has been running fine for the last two months but recently I was losing power and throttle along with the idle starting to sputter at random times. I was certain it was the dated AFMs. So replaced them with a aftermarket brand from cananda. The problem seemed to go away (so I thought).After driving the car around for about 30 minutes and allowing things to get warm the car just flips a switch and the idle will run shitty and it sounds like a go kart accelerating.  Wondering if it could be faulty  coilpacks or spark plugs. On a good note the car doesn't lose or cut out in acceleration anymore. When I cold start he vehicle it runs fine until things get hot after a while of driving for the day. Then I'll restart the car and have the same lumpy idle issue. Any idea what can be going on fellas?

 

 

 

Where you located white32? I've got a spare igniter and coil packs you could borrow to work out your problem. That way it won't cost you anything and once you know what it is you'll know what part to buy.

Good luck

 

  • Like 1
23 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Coil packs or ignitor.  Yellow jackets are random crap.  Some good, some bad.  So you take your chances with those.  The ignitor is famous for getting cranky when it gets old and hot.

That's great advice I actually have a spare igniter that was included with the car. Will try that!

16 hours ago, microg said:

Same problem as you ,it was my igniter

Gonna give it a shot thank you! 

 

14 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

Where you located white32? I've got a spare igniter and coil packs you could borrow to work out your problem. That way it won't cost you anything and once you know what it is you'll know what part to buy.

Good luck

 

Actually I'm located in Las Vegas and I have a spare igniter and could as well. Thank you so much tho that's damn awesome of you. ??

 

 

 

Small mall update tho guys. I realized that when I turn on the AC is when the car wants to start to act up. It will still do it as well when the ac is off after driving for a while. But what I noticed really makes it act up is turning on the AC.. Maybe the igniter isn't liking when I turn it on? 

Thoughts?

On a somewhat related note.  

Nissan makes an conversion kit for earlier VG30 using the later style igniter that is much cheaper, but the wiring is different from RB.  

https://frsport.com/Nissan-22020-97E25-Genuine-OEM-Z32-300Zx-VG30DE-TT--Power-Transistor-Unit_p_32087.html

I saw some old posts showing pictures on how to re-wire, but the pictures are now gone.  Would you folks have more information about the wiring?

The wiring's not hard.  Wires come in from the ECU on one side, go out to the coils on the other.  The pins are even numbered.

In reality, these days you'd be mental to even contemplate spending real money on an igniter.  Just piss it off, and the old coils, and go buy some new coils with built in igniters.  The various Toyota ones from little shitboxen are excellent, cheap, and you spend the same amount of effort on wiring.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

The wiring's not hard.  Wires come in from the ECU on one side, go out to the coils on the other.  The pins are even numbered.

If I recall the problem is with the way pins are numbered.  There are 7 pins, and the ground pin in RB I believe is the middle #4, but VG is on the end either #1 or #7.  Those lost pictures had shown which end is #1 and which end is #7.

Surely the wiring diagrams for all of these things are plastered across 11ty forums and not all evaporated in the Photobucket f**kup.  Just google your heart out and find them.  Otherwise, it's just a box with 6 transistors in it.  You can test it with a 6v battery and a multimeter to prove which input goes to which output in about 5 minutes.

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