Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need help! R33 gtst chasing power

Hey guys, 

I recently bought a r33 gtst which has some tasteful mods, custom exhaust, poddy, FMIC, alliminium radiator and FMiC

What can i do to reach 200kw atw? But i would need to stay in budget lets say the budget is around 4k or so. I can also get 1000cc injectors and ems stinger ecu but not sure which version for $500. If i get the ecu and tune it could i see 200kw on the stock turbo or will i have issues? 

Thanks for your wisdom o wise ones.

Edited by MrR33SKI
Mispelt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471700-need-help-r33-gtst-chasing-power/
Share on other sites

Yes you could get to or close to 200rwkw on a stock turbo. I wouldn't go over 11-12psi as the ceramic turbine wheels tend to snap off. If you're already getting injectors you could highflow the stock turbo for around $900. Will get you to 250-260rwkw. Will also need a better fuel pump, better airflow meter unless the ems runs map sensor, Afm won't be required.

 

 

 

  • Like 2

I got 187rwkw @ 11psi on an average tune with FMIC and exhaust. Stock S2 turbo.

For what you're chasing, on a budget:

  • High flow turbo ($1100)
  • Walbro 460 pump, with allowance for relay mod and bits ($250)
  • Z32 AFM ($300)
  • RB20 ECU, Nistune and Dyno ($1300)

This assumes you wouldn't get the EMS or injectors, and the prices I listed are on the high side. This combo is sub-$3k is good for 220-240rwkw and gives you everything you need to shoot for more power with the addition of a good set of injectors, maybe a flex sensor and board.

What injectors are you considering? I had lots of trouble with injectors, make sure you do it right!

  • Like 1
58 minutes ago, MrR33SKI said:

I think its bosch injectors... not sure. 

If there's any doubt, just go buy new. But as I said, you won't need injectors for <200rwkw

58 minutes ago, MrR33SKI said:

Inmaniac just exhuast and fmic? Stock ecu? And also what boost controller? 

So all id need is ecu and tune for 187rwkw? 

I used a Nistune, but in reality you don't need any ECU upgrade for that power level.

I used a GFB G-Force II EBC, but you can use a bleed valve if you really wanted to.

For that power level, your current mods and then upping boost to 11psi should do the trick. For 200+, as above.

Back in my old days I had a piggyback  safc2,gt28 turbo and managed to get 310 rwhp on stock r33 mad sensor. 

With the ems stinger,upgraded fuel pump+ injectors u should be able to achieve minimum 330 rwhp even do on stock turbo.

good luck mate 

Just get a manual bleed valve such as a $40 turbotech or a turbosmart and boost it to a safe 10psi, should get around 180rwkw which is still enough to have fun with.

I wouldn't get a tune with the stock turbo, to get 200rwkw you will have to run higher boost which is playing with fire with the ceramic turbine.

  • Like 2
2 hours ago, vxsr33 said:

Just get a manual bleed valve such as a $40 turbotech or a turbosmart and boost it to a safe 10psi, should get around 180rwkw which is still enough to have fun with.

I wouldn't get a tune with the stock turbo, to get 200rwkw you will have to run higher boost which is playing with fire with the ceramic turbine.

This.

Up the boost, FMIC, exhaust etc etc.

I got 256rwhp (190kw) years ago (no ecu, injectors). Plenty to have fun with until you want to upgrade your turbo (and everything else!).

Edited by r33cruiser
  • Like 1
4 hours ago, K.koolman said:

With the ems stinger,upgraded fuel pump+ injectors u should be able to achieve minimum 330 rwhp even do on stock turbo.

Lol. No.

OP, get a boost gauge and a manual boost controller (bleed valve). Set to 11psi (max) and go have fun. Set and forget until you have the coin to go bigger and better. That's essentially what everyone is saying.

Edited by inmaniac
  • Like 1

Thanks for the replies guys. Ive decided to go with turbosmart ebc, ems stinger ecu, for now and see if im safe at 10psi. 

Also anyone know of someone that does close door resprays cheap? Gotta a couple of dings and marks on it. Live in sydney 

Edited by MrR33SKI
Location
5 hours ago, K.koolman said:

The reason I stated that is because I have seen it with my own eyes...

 

good luck mate 

My R31 made 109rwkW once (RB30E is a sub 100kW engine).
Surely a GTS1 cam, extractors and 20 years of use wouldn't give it that much increased power? I think I still have the dyno sheet haha.

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, MrR33SKI said:

Thanks for the replies guys. Ive decided to go with turbosmart ebc, ems stinger ecu, for now and see if im safe at 10psi. 

Also anyone know of someone that does close door resprays cheap? Gotta a couple of dings and marks on it. Live in sydney 

Let us know your final hp figures.. cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
On 24/08/2017 at 4:36 PM, niZmO_Man said:

My R31 made 109rwkW once (RB30E is a sub 100kW engine).
Surely a GTS1 cam, extractors and 20 years of use wouldn't give it that much increased power? I think I still have the dyno sheet haha.

My old manual r31 silhouette made 126 kw at the wheels. Had extractors and 270,000 kms of wheel spin and burnouts for mods. I miss that rusty piece of crap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...