Jump to content
SAU Community

Nissan skyline r34 gtt Rb25det neo plenum install questions

adam wicks

By adam wicks,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Kinkstaah
Kinkstaah

Ah yes, but I have a top mount neo and do not need this manifold That said, you're in it, and it's on the car, so may as well finish it now.

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

Should have asked me to hook you up with a Plazmaman plenum. Also piss off the PCV

discopotato03
discopotato03

I imagine the cold start portion of the IAC assembly , wax pellet part , will stay open and the idle will stay high . You need to run coolant through them for it to work as intended . Origin

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
45 minutes ago, adam wicks said:

IMG_1504062381.823913.jpg

Also this has 2 spots for vac hoses do they both go to the manifold ?

And this is a solenoid that is used to trigger (I think) the vacuum to the charcoal canister when the (factory) ECU determines that it is OK to do it.  So, no, both do not go to the manifold.  On the stocker, one would go to a vacuum source and the other snakes off towards the front of the car.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, adam wicks said:

 


Is it for vac?

Yes, but not in the way that you're thinking.  That pipe is visible there, and on the other side of the timing cover.  On the inlet side, it is connected to the plenum.  On the other side it is connected to the suction port of the charcoal canister.  It provides the suck that purges the canister (and fuel tank) into the engine.

The solenoid valve you posted earlier is also connected to both the plenum and the charcoal canister.  It is the switch that makes the valve on the charcoal canister open.  There's no flow in that line, just a vacuum signal.

All the plenum vacuum you could ever want is available off the many vac ports they added down the back end of yoru new one.

Did you decide to put this plenum on without making notes on how the original setup was plumbed up?

  • Like 1
adam wicks Collaborator

adam wicks

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yes, but not in the way that you're thinking.  That pipe is visible there, and on the other side of the timing cover.  On the inlet side, it is connected to the plenum.  On the other side it is connected to the suction port of the charcoal canister.  It provides the suck that purges the canister (and fuel tank) into the engine.
The solenoid valve you posted earlier is also connected to both the plenum and the charcoal canister.  It is the switch that makes the valve on the charcoal canister open.  There's no flow in that line, just a vacuum signal.
All the plenum vacuum you could ever want is available off the many vac ports they added down the back end of yoru new one.
Did you decide to put this plenum on without making notes on how the original setup was plumbed up?


I work shift work and every time I started pulling the standard stuff off I got called to work for 12 hour shifts so I lost track and that's been the problem ahha
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted
On 8/30/2017 at 6:55 PM, adam wicks said:

 


It's not for gain it's perparing for top mount turbo setup coming soon

 

Ah yes, but I have a top mount neo and do not need this manifold :P

That said, you're in it, and it's on the car, so may as well finish it now.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Sorry, but that makes no sense.  There is more than one way I can read your question and none of them make sense.

1. Are you talking about the small hose on the barb on the intercooler return pipe just before the blue silicon joiner?  If so, that is not stock, it has been put there by somebody else, so it could be for anything.  It could be connected to that boost controller we see behind the PS reservoir.  It could be for a boost gauge.

2. Are you talking about the boost controller in the background?  If you are, one side (the input side) must come from the turbo outlet or intercooler hot pipe.  The other side goes to the wastegate actuator.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

That one (the barb, near the blue joiner) is stock on a R34 neo, it does indeed go to the power steering. It's used for speed sensitive power steering (somehow) and disconnecting it does result in some VERY heavy steering.. as well as a boost leak).

It runs from the PS to the charge pipe. It doesn't run to the plenum, so it'll go back to somewhere on your intercooler piping. If this doesn't exist, well you can block the hose if you like heavy steering all the time, or get a fitting put on your charge pipes.

  • Like 1
adam wicks Collaborator

adam wicks

Posted
  • Author
Posted
That one (the barb, near the blue joiner) is stock on a R34 neo, it does indeed go to the power steering. It's used for speed sensitive power steering (somehow) and disconnecting it does result in some VERY heavy steering.. as well as a boost leak).
It runs from the PS to the charge pipe. It doesn't run to the plenum, so it'll go back to somewhere on your intercooler piping. If this doesn't exist, well you can block the hose if you like heavy steering all the time, or get a fitting put on your charge pipes.



Yes the barb is factory on the 34s thank you glad you could understand haha

Thanks so don't delete it just put it back into the cooler pipes no problem thanks for explaining it to I wasn't sure what it was for
chiksluvit Experienced

chiksluvit

Posted
Posted

Nuh it's a power steering air control valve, it's only for bumping up idle when you turn the steering wheel. Mine's removed when I got a replacement pressure hose made up

Just block up the fitting that goes back to the plenum and the IC pipe

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...