Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

48 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

Thank you!  Many curves there to give me good data points!  Except the curves in kw show kph at the bottom instead of rpm, and I'm incapable of converting that even assuming it's pulled on 4th gear.  :7_sweat_smile:

Edited by TXSquirrel

Not completely related but I don't want to start a new post...

How much power or psi can RB26 factory head gasket typically handle?  I am trying to determine how far I should push my current setup...

Ahh I see, so the limit is the head bolts and not the gasket.  

My -9s are maxing out at 17.5 psi, more than that it's getting knocks because air is too hot.  So if the 28 years old head bolts can take 350kw, I will invest in a good intercooler and see if I can push to 20 psi.

24 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

That doesn't sound right.

time to look at your tune

That is fresh off the dyno, and the knock happens at the top of 1st and 2nd gear.  Still has plenty of injector to go, and we fill tank with fresh petrol just to be sure, still knocking.  Plugs are iridium heat range 7 gap to 0.036" / 0.9mm.  We could get 415whp / 310kw consistently with no knock at all at 17.5 psi, but not more.  I would guess room temperature was about 85F / 30C, so whatever that gets turned into with fans blowing.  Both coolant and oil temp was around 190F / 88C.  Conclusion is charged air getting too hot with factory intercooler.  

I think that's pretty good power at 17.5 psi, but kind of wish it could go to 20 psi.  Curve is identical to factory setup until 4000 rpm, so that tells me nothing major has gone wrong.  What's -9s optimum range anyways...?  

I'm thinking Plazmaman, but I'm not sure if that's too big for -9s at 76mm thick.  Greddy's is 70mm thick and HPI is 72mm.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...