Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys need a bit off help. At the moment I'm running stock boost of 6 psi. I originally had a boost tee hooked up but it was boosting up around the 15 psi mark. So I removed it and threw it away and ordered a new boost tee. It arrived today and I hooked it up and I'm having the same issue. On the lowest setting it is boosting around the 15 psi mark. So I brought a new vacuum line and hooked that up. Still over boosting. I've checked everywhere for any vacuum leaks and can't find anything. Am I missing something. Also yes the boost tee is hooked up the right way. The arrow is pointing to the actuator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472064-r33-overboosting/
Share on other sites

Update

So I wound the turbo towards more boost. Still over boosting around 16psi. I've shorten my vacuum line from intake manifold to my turbo tee to my turbo actuators and still no difference. Bit lost

Does your car have an aftermarket intercooler and piping on it? The stock cold side cooler pipe has a nipple on it for boost reference. I connect boost controller to that. You may want to change your vacuum line to somewhere before the throttle body.

 

While it's still advised, I recently did it myself, and did it off the black pipe coming from the turbo, I doubt this will fix your issue, I had mine running off the manifold for years and it was fine, just changes the characteristics of how it comes on. 

If the actuator is working (i.e. 5/6psi with no boost-T) then the only factor is the Boost-T itself, How far did you wind it to the '+' side earlier? and when doing so does the winder go into the body or out of? 

  • Like 1

When I'm winding the turbo tee towards the more boost +. It is coming out of the body of the turbo tee. I wound it all most all the way towards the + but stopped cause it stopped clicking and I thought the knob was going to come off.

6 hours ago, GTofuS-T said:

While it's still advised, I recently did it myself, and did it off the black pipe coming from the turbo, I doubt this will fix your issue, I had mine running off the manifold for years and it was fine, just changes the characteristics of how it comes on. 

If the actuator is working (i.e. 5/6psi with no boost-T) then the only factor is the Boost-T itself, How far did you wind it to the '+' side earlier? and when doing so does the winder go into the body or out of? 

Whilst I don't disagree, he had the same issue with the previous boost tee he was using...so unless they're the same model of boost tee, I think it'll be in the plumbing of what he's done or something to do with that solenoid that changes boost depending on RPM.

Speaking of, have you tried grounding that yet for the constant boost pressure?

Make sure no splits/leaks in the vacuum hose going to boost tee.

They are two different turbo tees. One was turbo smart and other is neon. As shown in photo. Why solenoid are you talking about. If it's the one where the factory boost lines went to. That is not in use anymore cause I've got the turbo tee in line. Hoses are all is good condition.

Well assuming you can connect that hose to the boost tee directly to the actuator and get 6psi, it can only be the boost T responsible.

I'd just get an RB20 actuator and fit that...think they are 10psi stock from memory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...