Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

36 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

I did it wrong too, bought a rust free one for cheap, spent a few bucks, then sold it and turned a tidy profit before the market wised up.

What the hell was i thinking?!

Still wouldn't mind having a 35 down the track, glutton for punishment apparently.

Ah yes, typical BDSM Sub behaviour. I like it.

I've also found it impossible to repair a damaged rb26 and not do stupid things to it. Why couldn't I just bolt it back together with some used and new oem parts?  Clearly a question that is unable to be answered. 

Also why are men now wearing over the shoulder hand bags? What happened to the good old days and a sturdy pair of cargo pants for personal item storage.

  • Like 1
7 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

I didn't realise how bad the rust on my car was until you pointed it out years ago.
It's only gotten worse haha.

You're unlucky then. My rust is only getting better.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

The obvious rust in the boot/towers. Rad support repairs the list goes on.

I did an 8hr round trip drive to go see one only to find all new seam sealer on the inner guards and obvious signs of cover up to repairs, entire rear subframe covered in decent surface rust. Pass. 

On the other hand, the one I bought had a tiny bit of surface rust in the spare wheel well (common) and everything else was original. So I bought it and as I expected after pulling the whole front end off, it was very original and in good nick. 

Good ones do exist, but plenty have been crashed/poor rust repairs/no repairs etc.

Rust happens, big deal, just fix it properly and be honest about it. 

 

 

10 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

The obvious rust in the boot/towers. Rad support repairs the list goes on.

I did an 8hr round trip drive to go see one only to find all new seam sealer on the inner guards and obvious signs of cover up to repairs, entire rear subframe covered in decent surface rust. Pass. 

On the other hand, the one I bought had a tiny bit of surface rust in the spare wheel well (common) and everything else was original. So I bought it and as I expected after pulling the whole front end off, it was very original and in good nick. 

Good ones do exist, but plenty have been crashed/poor rust repairs/no repairs etc.

Rust happens, big deal, just fix it properly and be honest about it. 

 

 

I was pleased to search the vin of mine and find it was a 'Cold Weather' optioned GTR (Heated Mirrors). I mean only the non snow areas of Japan would use that option right....right?....

I looked at a couple of R33 GTR's that had front struts ready to pop out of the towers at any time. And I knew of one R32 GTRR that got lighter and lighter as the subframe slowly died and dropped off in delicate little pieces, that and if you pushed the clutch too hard for some double step dose launch hero boost action you'd probably push through the floor.

23 minutes ago, fatz said:

Anyway this is a stance thread

 

rusty gtr and guilt go to the for sale pages

Stance it up then! 

I go elsewhere when I'm feeling guilty...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...