Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you dont have it just let me know the model code on the japanese id plate and i will enter it into the software and check for you, my code is ecr33 108 722 or something like that from memory so yours will be similar format i assume

12 hours ago, Mick said:

if you dont have it just let me know the model code on the japanese id plate and i will enter it into the software and check for you, my code is ecr33 108 722 or something like that from memory so yours will be similar format i assume

bnr32 011 611

i would repair the crack with superglue and baking soda or plastic powder, you start by putting some powder in the crack and then applying a little superglue onto the powder, it will be absorbed into the powder, then ann more powder to fill the crack and a bit more superglue, it dries fast and is stronger than just superglue on its own

  • Like 1
16 hours ago, Missileman said:

Know anybody with a 3D printer???

 

i'd join a group buy for it to lessen the scanning/cad .

 

3 hours ago, Mick said:

it will work, im sure other people here know about the superglue and baking soda trick, if you dont know about it just youtube it, you will be amazed

the problem is the plastic is dried out and will crack else where :( 

https://imgur.com/a/s1Ag2

google the superglue and baking soda and use that to repair it, trust me it will work good and if it ever cracks in another place just do the same again, you will be amazed at how well it works, i saw a clip of a guy repairing his plastic radiator using it, an another guy who filled a big hole with it and them drilled trough it and then run a tap into it and then put a bolt in it, i dont know if plastic powder would be better or baking soda, but research it a little. At least it will work until you can track down some new adjusters one day

did you build it up slowly, like pack a little powder in the crack and then just a tiny drop of glue and let it seep in then a bit more powder then a bit more glue, till it builds up then file or sand or cut the access off to shape

hey i was doing some googling and i found something on a 300zx site that talks about some mod that you can hook upto the headlight that you can electronically adjust the headlight from inside the car, and it shows a pic of the same headlight adjuster that you are looking for

https://aus300zx.com/xenforo/index.php?threads/headlight-adjusters.273864/

boom!!! i just found a little kit you can use to replace the plastic gears in the adjuster bit you have a photo of and the other bit on the headlight that it meshes up to, take a look at this page mate, they are replacing there plastic gears with them

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/H-L_Disassembly.pdf

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...