Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m going to be building my neo up soon with a top mounted gtx3076 gen2, 6 boost etc. Don’t intend to push for lots of power, just a nice road setup. On 98 Ron 

I have what I believe to be a r35 gtr afm already, came with the power F.C., although I currently am tuned on the stock afm

if I want to use this gtr afm, I have read I need it in a 4” tube, is that accurate ? Or how have others mounted them. Also, is there much to tuning the power F.C. using the r35 afm or is it easy enough, will it limit my tune much or will it be a good job. Some tuners I have spoke to are trying to get me to go for a link ecu, but for now I have the pfc. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472845-r35-gtr-afm/
Share on other sites

I've tuned several R35 AFMs in both 3" and 4" inch tubes and also tuned the HPX R35 styled AFM...

The tube size just changes the resolution of the AFM, generally if you run before the intake I would go bigger and also introduce a bend to reduce turbulence. It's more preferable to install these AFMs post turbo, post FMIC to reduce any reversion issues as well as turbulence.

In terms of scaling the PowerFC to work with the R35 I have no idea (as I stopped playing with powerFC about 10 years ago - as they're outdated and have zero features).

Preferable to go with Nistune, that has all the data for the R35 AFM (literally there's a menu where you select your AFM vs. the pipe size), not to mention supports basic engine protection, full flex support and launch control (bang bang lol).

If I was your tuner and you brought me a R35 AFM to install on your car I would say get a Nistune OR sell everything and get a Link or Halaltech or Adaptronic

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472845-r35-gtr-afm/#findComment-7861354
Share on other sites

yeah, entirely up to you

I prefer Nistune for it's basic engine protection. You can setup a TP Load cut and you can set soft/hard cut RPM limiters so you won't destroy your oil pump.

Just my recommendation, I know PowerFC has it's "cool" factor as you have a hand controller - but the novelty wears off there for me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472845-r35-gtr-afm/#findComment-7861398
Share on other sites

Nothing to do with cool as such. I’ve had 3 power F.C. equipped cars before, one nistune, one emanage ultimate and 2 link g4 setups over the years... and I’ve yet to notice a huge pile, yes a link might have pulled a bit more power out of say the emanage setup, but all provided a safe tune

so seeing as I have the power F.C. in this car I’ll stick with it. For now  

So... now that’s out of the way.. lol. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472845-r35-gtr-afm/#findComment-7861423
Share on other sites

So another question

car is currently mapped on a hks2530 to 1.35 bar on stock afm  

When the new setup is installed, gtx3076 and top mount 6boost,  will I be able to limp to a tuner if I leave the stock afm in place. I mean limp, basic drivin. 3k rpm max. 

Or will the map be so far out it will drive awful and risk motor damage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472845-r35-gtr-afm/#findComment-7861534
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I’m not sure but I’m thinking a 3.75 or 4” pipe to suit my needs, with the extra air of the 3076, but I don’t want to go to big and loose to much low down resolution

 

could anyone advise on that?

and also, I have a tail on the plug from the r35 afm, is it only a matter of chopping my own cars afm loom plug and joining the wires?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472845-r35-gtr-afm/#findComment-7865298
Share on other sites

It's a hot wire air flow meter.  It works by running a current through a wire (or a transistor) and monitoring the temperature of that wire (or transistor).  Then the current is controlled up and down to maintain the temperature of the sensing element.  Heat is lost to the air flowing past the element based on the mass flow rate of air.  More air flow = more heat loss -- more current required to maintain the temperature.

In a turbo inlet position, the air is at atmospheric pressure, so is moving faster for any given mass flow rate.  In an IC pipe, the air (at high flow rates) is at whatever the boost pressure is.  Higher pressure = lower velocity for any given pipe size.  Could be double or triple the density of atmospheric air.  Regardless of what the pressure is though, the local air mass flow rate past the sensing element is what the AFM is reading.  More air = more blah blah blah, as above.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472845-r35-gtr-afm/#findComment-7865331
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...