Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yo!

 

so yesterday my s2 R33 rb25det was working perfect never had an issue. i get in my car i go for a drive i go to hit boost and its struggling, it sounds like i have a bee r limiter but no power at all just making mad pops from the exhaust. the factory boost gauge shows its working but yeah no power and it struggles real bad. 

 

i have checked all the piping and lines. no leaks or splits. 

if anyone has gone through this or knows how to fix it please help. i just wannnaaaaa hit boost :( 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472876-r33-misfiring-trying-to-hit-boost/
Share on other sites

stock ecu. 11.5psi. s2 r33 turbo. there is a paper in the car that its been tuned to 11.5psi. but doesnt feel like it. i changed the spark plugs seems to be working a little more better now. just gonna scope out for leaks with air compressor. i was hoping nothing shorted when i was using a light test and accidentally hit the smoke lighter and it sparked 

hasnt been tuned for a few years. i have a dump and highflow cat and looked inside it no cermaic wheel bits. ive just put gasket maker for bov. tighten up everything else and install a boost a gauge tomorrow and see whats going on from there. its stopped misfiring. boosting better now. but feel like its lacking 10% of power i reckon but i'll let gasket dry over night and see how she goes in the morn. 

Turn down the boost, your car isn't tuned.

You cannot tune the stock R33 ECU unless it has been remapped by Toshi or by those off the shelf remapped Nap ECUs (totally useless with Australia fuel and climate).

update* seems to be running better now. it ind of slacks but its getting there.

 

also i noticed after putting gasket maker for bov. when cold it kinds of flutters a little and makes a weird little metal noise after dose for under a sec. but once its warmed up it goes back to whoosh sound and no metal noise :/ 

strange. now its starting to do it again.

 

so when i put my foot down as it gets around 4-5k mark it looses power even with my foot on the floor it doesnt wanna go anywhere. i try it again and boost will come on i try it again it wont want to move... so confused

Edited by AndreW_R32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...