Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys having major problems with the brakes on my r33 skyline gtst non abs.

There is no leaks at the calipers, master cylinder or anywhere on the brake lines everything is solid.

With the engine off you pump the brakes 3 times they sit high and hard with no pressure drop if you apply consistent pressure (Master Cylinder is 100%)

Once you turn the engine on, the brake pedal drops to half travel if you put a bit of pressure on it and the braking doesnt feel the best. I cannot for the life of me think what is wrong, I have swapped out the master cylinder and brake booster from my friends 33 which has great pedal feel. Has been properly bled 3 times there is literally no bubbles in the system at all.

Manual bleed, vacuum bleed, reverse pressure bled.

Bought 2 metres of clear line and made sure there was no bubbles it is definitely bled right it is driving me crazy.

Thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472911-brake-problems-r33-gtst-non-abs/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dobz said:

So it’s high and hard before you turn her on, once she’s turned on it drops half way and softens up?

Serious now, have you played around with the pedal adjustment?

#Brazzers

No haven't played with the pedal adjustment, comparing it to my friends measuring the length of the thread thru the nut on the brake pedal assembly mine sticks out 5.2mm and his is 5.1mm with a bit of error in measurement due to the difficulty of getting the vernier in there it is the same.

If you think it will fix it might give it a shot tonight look up a tutorial now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...