Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I'm new here.  Prior posts have been very helpful on other topics, but I can't find much about this.  I bought a 1991 (series 2) R32 GT-R with a factory steering wheel with airbag.  I have some concerns since the airbag is 27 years old, and because it's ugly.  

image.png.8be2cb76f9892b5effbe255faae5f8eb.png

Fist of all, does anyone know about the quality / safety of these airbags?  Do these early airbags have a lifespan?  Do you think it's safer to keep it active or unplug it?  Also, does anyone know if the R32 had an airbag indicator or warning light?  All newer cars with airbags do, but I can't seem to find one on the R32.

What I'd really like to do is swap the R32 steering wheel for a newer one with an airbag.  Does anyone know if the R34 factory steering wheel would fit?  I would need it to work with HICAS, the horn, and the airbag.  I would love to put a R34 GT-R or GTT wheel (see below) on if everything would fit and work properly.

image.png.e1f0079db492fd328d00e64b25b8df0c.png     image.png.1084339858081c980c9e751999cc0e30.png

Thanks!

  • 1 month later...

First up, it is simply not permitted to change anything to do with airbags.  You can't swap to a different airbag wheel, probably even if it was from the same model of car (just a different trim package for example).  You would have to get an engineering certificate from a registered automotive engineer, at minimum, would be my guess, if you were to try it.  Especially if you're talking about swapping to later cars' wheels.  I would expect that you couldn't even consider swapping to later (like R34) wheels because I'm pretty sure that the HICAS steering position sensor drive is not compatible.  Not that that should be an obstacle, because anyone still with an active HICAS system on board should be kicked in the arse and shown how to defeat it, because it is pure shit.

Having said that, it's an R32 GTR.  If it's an import, and if you chose to remove the bag wheel and replace it with a non-bag wheel, then I'm sure that no-one would really be the wiser.  You just say "It was imported from Japan with no airbag, like most of the others".  And shrug, and smile and bat your eyelids and whatever it takes to make yourself look honest and naive.

As to whether the airbag itself is safe.....you'll never know unless you crash it.  It will either go off, or it won't.  If it doesn't then it's safe.  If it does, it will either protect you or it will try to kill you.  There's no telling with these really old bags how healthy they are.  The problem with the Takata bags is pretty specific to those particular bags.  But there are any number of other ways that these things could go bad.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

I would leave it stock. Your car is an older car and that steering wheel came with it. Leave it as is in my opinion and modify everything else to your heart's content as the vintage steering wheel goes well with a vintage car. Just suits really well.

Edited by Robocop2310
  • 9 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...