Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

16 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Shafts are piss easy.  Fall out from the inside.  Hubs/splines are obviously much more trouble.  You need to dismantle all this to find out what is wrong with it before you go buying stuff though.

Ok cool figers crossed its just the shafts.

3 hours ago, hardsteppa said:

Having had  the same movement, i rebuilt the cv's, replaced bearings, new bushes, new diff centre with perfect backlash...i still have the same movement.  However..images.jpeg.8136256e0d9e64410795ed90d9daa444.jpeg

For real?  hope i dont play that game

I learnt from gts boy and stepper and did sfa and noticed no difference. Car drives fine with that type of movement, even at 240+ km/h. My advice is leave it alone unless the wheel is going in/out from bearing wear, that would require attention.

ok now watched the video...looked normal to me. Diffs don't have zero backlash, they have a small amount for a very good reason, which is visible as a bit of turn in the driveshaft like that, when not under load.

the 5 bolt driveshafts on the r33 gtst use a 5-ball cv joint in both the inner and outer, which for most purposes is as strong as fk, there's nothing in there to ' break' really, only wear a groove at best, unlike the 3x2 bolt shafts which I believe use a 3x ball bearing race on the inner. I rebuilt a spare set of shafts and they had exactly the same movementousness as my old ones, which when pulled apart had no visible wear. 

What I am getting at is if you're not having any ' issue' as such, the bit of movement like that is unlikely to be any concern. 

 

Ok maybe It's nothing, there's no bearing movement. Drives normal only thing i can think of is I get an odd click when taking off sometimes was thinking that could be related. Not continuous just once.

Here's a vid of it, car jacked up in neutral handbrake on.

 P1370539_2.mp4

Handbrake off in gear.

 P1370541_1_1.mp4

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...