Jump to content
SAU Community

No Brake Lights on R34 GTT

StuartUK
 Share

Recommended Posts

StuartUK Apprentice

StuartUK

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just found an issue today, stuck what to do.
I have the R34 GTT, all has been fine and so on for ages... Not driven car since last weekend.
Went out today, just found out the Brake Lights don't work....

I can turn on the lights as normal, but when I press Brake pedal, whether in ' no lights', 'side lights' or full lights' mode, I get no Brake Lights frown.giffrown.gif

I changed the 10A Red fuse from the Fuse box in the engine Bay, which is labelled as 'TAIL' which is between 'TCS' and 'HORN' , but still no lights, and not sure the 'TAIL' fuse relates to brake lights...
The fuse panel down by the pedals = in Jap (so cant read which fuse is for what!)  Not even sure its a fuse problem.

Not sure what to check, or where, etc. Any help, i would be very grateful smile.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473901-no-brake-lights-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites
StuartUK Apprentice

StuartUK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Since posting this message, had a few peeps say looking for the 'blue' brake switch at the top of the pedal to see if anything come loose.....
Its tight, nothing loose, etc
I did read that the Brake Switch's do fail, but could be either Brake Switch or the Fuse which has popped..  The fuse which is in the panel by the accelerator pedal....
However, the fuse panel cover has all the fuse names in Japanese!  Cant read which fuse is for the Brake Switch Sender....

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

Google translate can help you with the translation. 

Pull the brake light switch plug off and find a bit of wire to bridge it. If the lights don't come on then it could be the fuse or a broken wire somewhere. 

If you aren't good with electrics and you can't easily find the problem an auto elec is the easiest way to get it sorted.

StuartUK Apprentice

StuartUK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update:
Still not sorted, but had a guy take a look at things, he did his stuff with the Multimeter, checked this, checked that...
Tested the brake switch, swapped the brake switch out, changed fuses....

He tested the points with the meter in the driver side boot area, said no voltage was coming through the wire that powers the 'stop lights'........

So potentially, there is a break in the wire inside the loom that runs from the fuse panel in the footwell......

Question is, where do I go from here ?  find a good Auto sparky ?   is there a bodge that could be done for now, like getting some wire (car speaker wire ???) and running straight from the fuse panel to the relay block (if there is one in the boot) ?

 

StuartUK Apprentice

StuartUK

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I got a temporary fix in place....
I don't fully understand the fix, but a mate who is an electrician, done a:
Bypass from Brake Switch to Fuse Panel, and temporary ran the wire into the ABS fuse point.......
Quick fix is, I have brake lights, but it shows that there is a break between fuse panel and brake switch.....
Next call is to the Auto electrician guy ! :)

Edited by StuartUK
Typo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...