Jump to content
SAU Community

Broke a poncam, can i replace with procam?

Lopin18

By Lopin18,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lopin18 Contributor

Lopin18

Posted
Posted

While installing the exhaust one i didnt notice that the lobes where in the wrong position so the last one was under pressure and it snapped.... f**k me

Now im trying to see how to replace it. i cant seem the find the exhaust only poncam.

 

RB25 Neo, 260 dur poncam type B 9.15 mm lift.

 

All the ones im finding as a single cam are the procams, can i actually replace my broken poncam with a procam with the same duration and lift without issues? or is there something different? i keep reading the poncam is adjusted to stock timing etc but i dont see that on the procam so its kind of confusing.

 

 

 

 

Leroy Peterson Grand Master

Leroy Peterson

Posted
Posted

Have bought JUN individually through RHD, was made to order so was like 1+ months till posted.

 

Also, I think generally procam have stronger ramp rates and tomei recommend retainers and upgraded springs. Poncam is supposedly drop in stock upgrades.

 

 

Lopin18 Contributor

Lopin18

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Poncams seems to be a set everywhere i look, procams tho are sold individually, but now that u mention the ramp rates etc... i dont know much about cams. 

If i get a procam 260, 9.15mm lift, what makes it different from say a poncam? ramp rate, i thought cams only had 2 variables, duration and lift.

Kelfords are out of my budget for now.

Seems my option would be to get an exhaust procam or just go with the intake camshaft only. Dont know what that would mean.

Leroy Peterson Grand Master

Leroy Peterson

Posted
Posted




If i get a procam 260, 9.15mm lift, what makes it different from say a poncam? ramp rate, i thought cams only had 2 variables, duration and lift.

Designing cams is a world of its own, and the information on paper and specs you buy tell half the story.

One option I forgot is it's possible to get your cams doctored... Clive cams or crow cams might be able to make copies of your cam. I went to Clive cams for mine when the lobes were damaged but their machines couldn't do over 10mm lift
TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
Posted
On 5/14/2018 at 10:56 AM, Lopin18 said:

Jeez, how dumb do i feel now, i checked that page like 20 times but i didnt notice the big note. Thanks man!

Sure thing!  There are instances that one would say oh crap! after miss reading something, but this is a rare instance which you get say oh good!  ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...