Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 5/10/2018 at 3:06 AM, Rusty Nuts said:

The solenoid is different and does not work in non neo engines, the vct is different too,  as GTS boy said they are specific to neo engines. Neo vct cuts in much earlier, from idle, and is active all revs to 5700rpm for turbo and 5400rpm for n/a wheras earlier RB25 ranges are 1050 - 5700 and 1050 - 5400 respectively

 

 

On the R34GTT the solenoid is activated via engine 'Load' which is called TP in the Nissan world.

It is not engaged via an RPM trigger. It is disengaged @ 5400rpm.

 

There's also a minimum temperature of 70C for the solenoid to work

 

Effectively 'd say VTC kicks in at around 3000 if you were to put the pedal to the metal.

 

 

 

 

R34.JPG

Edited by Torques
On 5/11/2018 at 10:44 AM, Rusty Nuts said:

I am quoting Tomei and a standard ECU there was no mention of Nistune in his enquiry. I am using Nistune in mine and using the start point at 1050rpm because the VCT internals lasts longer physically if its actuated when oil pressure is higher, they tend to "bounce" internally at idle

As I said mate i'm quoting Tomei and I put a test light on the vct output and it lit above 1050rpm. If there is 12volts there what other conclusion can I make??

13 hours ago, Torques said:

There's also a minimum temperature of 70C for the solenoid to work

I know you are in pommyland mate but how long do you think it takes to hit 70C over here in the land of Downunder.

We don't need those little engine heaters to keep our oil warm overnight like my old man used under his Sunbeam Alpine when we lived in Manchester.

14 hours ago, Torques said:

On the R34GTT the solenoid is activated via engine 'Load' which is called TP in the Nissan world.

Mine is a RB30/25det neo. In a R33 auto with Z32tt fully manualised auto running R32 Nistune so thanks for the chart but has nothing to do with my setup.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
14 hours ago, Torques said:

The solenoid is different and does not work in non neo engines, the vct is different too

And this was the subject as I recall. Not interested in a spitting competition either.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
43 minutes ago, Rusty Nuts said:

And this was the subject as I recall. Not interested in a spitting competition either.

And yet, that's how it seems all of your above posts read.  Not a bad effort for a newbie to come in and take the mantle of prickiest poster, but there you go.

  • Like 2
4 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

And this was the subject as I recall. Not interested in a spitting competition either.

You completely lost me here maaaate :)

I merely stated what the OEM ECU does. 70C+, TP of 56, OFF @ 5400, and no fixed RPM for on

No competition intended!

Edited by Torques
4 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Mine is a RB30/25det neo. In a R33 auto with Z32tt fully manualised auto running R32 Nistune so thanks for the chart but has nothing to do with my setup.

Mate the chart is from Nistune, and I replied to your statement about the OEM R34 GTT :)

I also do run the Z32TT ECU on NT .. so I think there is some overlap to your setup ...

 

 

Edited by Torques
On 5/10/2018 at 11:33 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Regardless of NEO or non-NEO the RPM where it is enabled or disabled is 100% configurable if you're not using a PowerFC or Stock ECU.

The window where it stays on should be tuned till when torque starts to decay, of course this is all dependant on what parts have been bolted to the motor.

Generally for me, I will do one run with it turned off and one run with it turned on past max torque ie close to red line and overlay the derived torque graph. The intersection point is optimally where it is turned off. Also once off, the motor will happily take more timing

 

Yes, that's the best approach ... one run off, the other one constantly on.

Edited by Torques

Has this ever been done as an example as to when to turn it on?


I had always heard it comes "on" at loads just above idle, i.e ~1200rpm with 'some' load. But above posts insinuate it actually can/should come on at about 3000rpm and off at 5400rpm?

Anyone done a dyno with it on/off between 1000rpm and 3000rpm?

  • 1 year later...

I have some info for you @LaurelPWR,

Rb25de Neo cam gear is 30degrees advance

Rb25det Neo cam gear is 20degrees advance

N/A cam gear is indicated by a green dot on the front face.

I now have my own question, has anyone ever had issues with vct cam gear seal leaking when externally feeding vct, eg supplying it too much oil.

Is it required to restrict Vct feed line with the neo system? Engine is Rb30/25 Neo.

1 hour ago, r32 gtst said:

I now have my own question, has anyone ever had issues with vct cam gear seal leaking when externally feeding vct, eg supplying it too much oil.

Is it required to restrict Vct feed line with the neo system? Engine is Rb30/25 Neo

No never had a problem with oil leaking, I installed new seals at build. I did not use any restriction either.

@GTSBoy im more worried that its flowing too much oil to drain back rather than pressure, may be pressurising the area behind the cam seal because it cant evacuate the oil quick enough and therefore pushing past my brand new seal, does anyone know the fluid path of the vct well to share their info?

But what flow are we talking about here? This is not powered by flow. It is powered by static pressure. The oil doesn't have to go anywhere. There is probably a little flow channel somewhere to allow it to purge air out, but it is supposed to receive lots of oil pressure because it is oil pressure that pushes the actuator. It's not like a turbo where the oil just has to be there and any extra pressure will push it through the seals. Pressure is desirable here.

@GTSBoy im not entirely sure how the fluid dynamics work but i do know there are 4 vents around the gear that exit the gear, surely excess oil would have to go somewhere?

You're still working on the assumption that there is such a thing as "excess oil". I would argue you want full engine oil pressure available in the actuator and that the flow away from there through the bleed holes is whatever that pressure will cause applied to that cross-sectional area.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...