Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently got an alignment for my R32 GTR, all still within spec except left rear camber.  Still riding on old factory upper control arm, and the eccentric bolt is maxed out.  They told me a new bushing will not make up enough of the 0.5 degree difference even if I get new OEM upper control arm.  Is that a fair statement?  How about the Nismo upper control arms?  All the adjustable aftermarket options I find all use solid bushing, but I still want to use tradition rubber bushing, is there no such aftermarket option?

SPw0oTl.jpg

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474192-r32-rear-upper-control-arm-options/
Share on other sites

I guess you are trying to stay within factory settings; have you also got the factory suspension?

If so, most likely the car is riding lower than it used to which gives more camber, you can measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to the rear guard on both sides to see if it is even. New springs may be a good idea.

The other, less likely, possibility is that something has been bent over the years. In that case a new, factory arm would probably correct it if you knew exactly what was bent out of upper control arm, traction arm, lower control arm, hub, toe/hicas link, subframe or subframe mounting point.

Thank you all for the information.  Yes I would just like to get back to factory spec, no setup for track or anything else. 

My car came with Nismo S-tune coilover, which only lowers 10mm so should not be a big issue for camber.  Front components are all Nismo, but but rear control arms are still factory, so they are 28 years old now.  Given how old the rear arms are, I thought just getting new ones would fix the camber, but my alignment guy had doubts because of how little adjustment the eccentric bolt can do.

I have never heard of Hardrace, they seem to offer a good range of products, but trying to buy them in the US appears to be a pain.  I think I will go with Whiteline.  Even though Whiteline only labels their upper controls arm to fit S13 and Z32, they are identical to R32 correct?

Just realize Whiteline uses polyurethane bushings instead of rubber.  Not a fan of polyurethane, so I will try to source a pair of Hardrace.  However, I found this brand I never heard of called TruHart also makes one for 2/3 the price.  Have you guys heard of it?

http://www.truhartusa.com/Rear_Upper_Control_Arms_for_89_94_240sx_Skyline_p/th-n201.htm

 

19 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

Looks like stuff off ebay.

Perhaps contact these people:

www.buyhardrace.com/

Yeah I emailed and called them Monday morning, no response until now.  $200 USD plus shipping and a 1-2 month wait...

I had bad experience with polyurethane bushings, but if I don't want to get those eBay junk then looks like Whiteline is the only option left. $160 USD shipped through Amazon, so actually not a bad deal.

I have early, limited run GKTech ones in my car, they haven't made a sound in 4 years, but the cheapo red ones from JustJap (I'd say same as the cheap eBay arms) squeaked after about two months of daily driving. Price IIRC was about $150-ish AUD per pair for the arms, so $160 USD for Whiteline seems reasonable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...