Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 4 door drag set up

polzin
 Share

Recommended Posts

polzin Enthusiast

polzin

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I need some help from some fellow members I’m in the next stage of my build and that’s suspension the car is my r32 four door but I need to lay the power down to the rear what suspension is every one running these days ?  Rang just jap talking to them they recomaned bc coils but I am open to options the car will be setup for drag racing the set up now is way to hard 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474230-r32-4-door-drag-set-up/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

First you need to fix the subframe.  The anti-squat geometry on R32s is the enemy of drag traction.

After you've replaced it with an S14 subframe, put a full set of adjustable arms into it and ensure that they are dialled in for minimal camber and as little bump steer as possible.  Then speak to MCA about some custom valved coilovers.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Yuh, but the subframe is essentially the same as the GTSt subframe.  The stuff that's bolted to it is not responsible for the geometry.

And the GTR diff isn't "stronger" than the GTSt diff.  Yeah, sure, it's a mechanical LSD, but then anyone dragging a non GTR is going to put a mech centre into the GTSt diff anyway.  And the 6 bolt axles are only marginally stronger than the 5 bolt.  So, go ahead and put that stuff in if you want to, but don't make the mistake of thinking that it's a major upgrade in terms of strength.  And do not make the mistake of thinking that the GTR subframe is better than the one that you have.

In the R33/4 and S14/5 cars, the suspension geometry was significantly improved over the R32 & S13 era cars.  And the S chassis cars don't have HICAS, which is worth getting rid of for any car, but certainly good to get rid of for drag.

bcozican Experienced

bcozican

Posted
Posted

agree with all above 

I dont know what power your going to run but I have personally run  high 500's hp with rb25 in both drift and circuit in r32 4 door with all of the above and have never had a problem with axles etc (I know drag is a little different with launches)

then if anything you can spend the same money getting s14 subframe + diif + below upgraded axles for a better outcome than circa $1000 - $1500 on the full rear GTR cradle

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/nissan/skyline/nissan-rwd-gt-s-and-variants-rear-axle-bar-upgrade-bars-only

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • joshuaho96
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • GTSBoy
      new here

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...