Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I need some help from some fellow members I’m in the next stage of my build and that’s suspension the car is my r32 four door but I need to lay the power down to the rear what suspension is every one running these days ?  Rang just jap talking to them they recomaned bc coils but I am open to options the car will be setup for drag racing the set up now is way to hard 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474230-r32-4-door-drag-set-up/
Share on other sites

First you need to fix the subframe.  The anti-squat geometry on R32s is the enemy of drag traction.

After you've replaced it with an S14 subframe, put a full set of adjustable arms into it and ensure that they are dialled in for minimal camber and as little bump steer as possible.  Then speak to MCA about some custom valved coilovers.

Yuh, but the subframe is essentially the same as the GTSt subframe.  The stuff that's bolted to it is not responsible for the geometry.

And the GTR diff isn't "stronger" than the GTSt diff.  Yeah, sure, it's a mechanical LSD, but then anyone dragging a non GTR is going to put a mech centre into the GTSt diff anyway.  And the 6 bolt axles are only marginally stronger than the 5 bolt.  So, go ahead and put that stuff in if you want to, but don't make the mistake of thinking that it's a major upgrade in terms of strength.  And do not make the mistake of thinking that the GTR subframe is better than the one that you have.

In the R33/4 and S14/5 cars, the suspension geometry was significantly improved over the R32 & S13 era cars.  And the S chassis cars don't have HICAS, which is worth getting rid of for any car, but certainly good to get rid of for drag.

agree with all above 

I dont know what power your going to run but I have personally run  high 500's hp with rb25 in both drift and circuit in r32 4 door with all of the above and have never had a problem with axles etc (I know drag is a little different with launches)

then if anything you can spend the same money getting s14 subframe + diif + below upgraded axles for a better outcome than circa $1000 - $1500 on the full rear GTR cradle

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/nissan/skyline/nissan-rwd-gt-s-and-variants-rear-axle-bar-upgrade-bars-only

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...