Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

 

So I've been experiencing an intermittent misfire with my gtr r32, at Idle its not running on all cylinders. At some times it runs flawlessly. So my first thought was to check ignition, and to change out the plugs, as they haven't been done in a while. As I took out all the plugs, each of them was covered in oil, on the threaded bit only. The porcelain, and the electrode were clean and dry. So, my question is: what could be causing a leak down in the plug wells? Normally, I'd think of valve cover gasket, but it seemed dry and sits higher than the plug wells down in the valley. I checked everywhere on the net for some kind of replacement part seal or gasket, or tube that would fit in or around the spark plug well, but it seems its non existent?

Also,  I performed a resistance test on the coils which all read about 1.2 ohms, this is outside of nissans required spec (0.6-0.9ohms), does this mean they're on their way out?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474741-oil-on-spark-plug/
Share on other sites

Hey,

Thanks for the reply. The oil was wet for the most part. I installed new plugs, and started the car to check if the misfire had gone, was still there. I wanted to check on the new plugs, and they were also coated in oil. Though, not as bad, being they were fresh. 

Is that so? Never heard of that lol. 

The only 'seal' is on the coil setup.  The silicon type bung that you push over the spark plug as you install the coils.  And as others have said, I wouldn't worry about the oil.  If its not gushing its fine :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...