Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Welcome. Welcome one welcome all - to partz for sells. Can post auswide, pm for costs.

First - Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Fairly new, and in good working order. I know this for fact, cos i'm still currently using it, but won't fit my new fuel rail so...

$100. 

20190101_162816.thumb.jpg.ad3ae5077702ae92a3d0f728a062cb01.jpg

 

GK Tech poly subframe bushes. These are BRAND NEW - didn't even make it to the garage, and are still in the box. Bought them to address roll centre correction but achieved the same by cutting the top off the whiteline bushes I already had installed so didn't use these. My loss, yo gain. Fits a number of vehicles; details here on the GK Tech website - https://au.gktech.com/polyurethane-rear-subframe-bushes

$110.

20190101_174621.thumb.jpg.8a3817f66949bf5ac2d80309a5a907f8.jpg20190101_174625.thumb.jpg.b842849d10a49d7cf9a7b980c7b6f5a3.jpg

 

Apexi SAFC NEO. In excellent working order and worked well for me, but now have a standalone ecu. In good working order as pics show. Has a strip of thermotape across the top (protect it from being roasted when parked in sun) - not an issue, but to mention it for detail of condition. Other than that, bloody choice bruv.

$200.

20190101_163100.thumb.jpg.e97bcc1c6e5d1405d4df75d164d17616.jpg20190101_163034.thumb.jpg.4a1cff2a01e93a3e24690182e0a77c57.jpg20190101_163051.thumb.jpg.eb85da45851d6041f2d8810c8b315077.jpg

 

 

 

 

Tein S-Tech springs, full set of front and rear- for R33 gtst plus others. Bought when I thought my coilovers has developed a knock but they hadn't, so these are test-fitted only - otherwise brand new still in box. These are the firmer type around 4.5kg from memory? so halfway between usual aftermarket springs and hard coilover springs. Possibly the best lowering spring for a street car that you can get.....possibly. Saw a post about counterfeits going around - check the logo and part number printing in the pics; they're genuine Tein. 

$300

20190101_163355.thumb.jpg.baaadb6b31acfdc7838f891309d45049.jpg20190101_163415.thumb.jpg.1d02c20c57e9db8b37ad2c596548fa2f.jpg20190101_163323.thumb.jpg.726effd265a3e4d78361f8a8e32bd367.jpg

 

also have

- r33 gtst auto non abs tailshaft - R$30

- set of 6 r33 stock injectors - $20

- R33 gtst front LCA's, welded braces/boxed with Hardrace rubber bushes, VGC. $50

- R33 gtst stock front and rear camber arms, rear traction arms - $20 a set.

- GkTech hubcentric wheel spacers for R33/34, S14/14 etc - in 10mm, 13mm and 15mm thickness - $25 a set

also - ARP main stud set for RB25DET - BRAND NEW still in box...although as you will know, these come in a plain white box as not an 'official" ARP product in their usual logo'ed box (put together by their dealers? - genuine ARP though). Bought for the engine rebuild I never got around to rebuilding. Only thing is I used the lube sachet for my head studs, so no lube but otherwise complete. 

Think they're around $350? steal then at $250.

no we're not done yet - B&M oil cooler - multipurpose, but I used it as a auto trans cooler. Thick solid construction, laughs off flying road pebbles with ease. Comes with ducting and custom hardlines and mounting brackets - is 100% bolt on to your existing factory mounting points and rubber lines, for R33 gtst, in drivers side front of wheel arch.

$100

2084923555_BMcooler.thumb.jpg.adcfdb9dbb7e6dfb5756a69b73fd2485.jpg

 

Stainless steel intake pipe and silicone joiners for r33/r34 gtst. Has the fitting for BOV return (2 in fact, if you're running aftermarket instead) and PCV return line. Also thermotape-wrapped for your pleasure.

$50

20171002_122450.jpg.18adb77f2b02e996d1071c72b33be939.jpg

20171002_122441.jpg.e456920dd614a75be0a5b06c2d0b2722.jpg

 

Are you able to measure the length of the R33 LCA's? Need new ones for my s15 if they are the same (think they are)

Bushing to balljoint would be great, cheers.

6 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Are you able to measure the length of the R33 LCA's? Need new ones for my s15 if they are the same (think they are)

Bushing to balljoint would be great, cheers.

ehhy for sure my friend for sure, i do for you. It measure 395mm from tip to tip shown 'ere.

1089440322_controlarm.thumb.jpg.39fff1ebde827067c1b983c6ce0d295d.jpg

 

B&m trans cooler and intake pipe now sold. Cheers to Rustynuts for a very smooth transaction.

Pm replied Josh.

price drop on Tein springs, $250, and further info

SPECIFICATIONS
- Front Spring Rate: 4.1 kgf/mm
- Rear Spring Rate: 4.4 kgf/mm
Ride Height Drop (ECR33)
- Front: 32mm
- Rear: 30mm

On 1/4/2019 at 7:45 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

Sweet i will measure mine tonight and get back to you, cheers

FYI, R33 arms don’t have the hole w/cup for the S15 swaybar link. Bump stop is also slightly different. 

  • 3 weeks later...

Nismo FPR now off vehicle, ready to go.

Also have - BrakeWest s/steel braided lines. These are ADR compliant/stamped, and a very high quality line - same layout as stock with the mounting blocks built into the lines. Think Nismo but a little more heavy duty construction. Used but in extremely good condition. Front only sorry, I still use the rear lines. 

$40, or add $15 postage anywhere in Oz.

20190127_115059.thumb.jpg.01bf2c19c38141613a5ddba3d9e1145e.jpg

20190127_115106.thumb.jpg.4e049930bfa544b2bb53cae8b79efd18.jpg

Another 3in stainless intake pipe. Has ports for BOV and PCV return, and is thermowrapped. This is the lower section only this time. You need to use a 2.3in>3in reducer from turbo to the pipe, and the reducer pictured is 3in>3.5 (I have now gone 3.5in all the way so this section not needed). So use either another bit of 3in routed to your afm/filter/whatever, or go 3.5 (gave me a little better throttle response).

$50, or add $18 posted anywhere in Oz. 

20190127_115029.thumb.jpg.60fefed31d57d469f5e3af93513a2e3d.jpg

20190127_115034.thumb.jpg.f5194d5a1114867b996a2842f05a80fd.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
    • Really, low/midrange torque goes really bad?? I want decent acceleration, maybe I use a stock rb25det neo manifold?    
×
×
  • Create New...