Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

so buying qll bits i need for my upgrade and what is left is a tubonand injectors.

turbo will be a hybrid bolt on build by uk company.

 

re injector, they cost around £600. Alternative is r35 gtr injectors and reading numerous posts it seems they are a straight fit but some say you need to change an o ring. Can anyone share their experience on this?

is it a straight fit?

 

i see lots of sets going for £200 sexond hand and also few set of either bosch or denso at £160 for 6 injectors brand new. Is it too cheap to be true / good quality?

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTR-R35-INJECTORS-STANDARD-X-6-R34-R32-R33-GTT/153354371979?hash=item23b4a2038b:g:grsAAOSwrfRcTZjQ

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Genuine-750cc-Turbo-Fuel-Injector-71lb-Direct-Fit-Nissan-GTR-R35-350Z-G35-M35/183394861581?fits=Model%3AGT-R|Plat_Gen%3AR35&hash=item2ab32f820d:g:67QAAOSwvu5bfBkX

 

if i fit them in, considering my original ones are 370 cc, would the car run at all for me to drive to dynonplace?

I think answer is no as it will flood the engine with fuel. 

So my second question is if i fit it after installing my link ecu  with base image, could i just go there an change the injector size so it will let me drivr it to the garage?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475981-rb25det-neo-injector/
Share on other sites

You want to buy ~1000cc (or more like 1100cc these days) Bosch EV14 based injectors from a reputable supplier.  Get the right length ones for the Neo, with wiring adaptors.  viz https://www.injectorsonline.com/au/fuel-injectors/nissan/rb25-neo.html

You're looking at ~$100 ozzy each.  Not 100 pounds each.

And no, you cannot fit massive injectors and drive it to the dyno.  Get them fitted there.

And do't buy injectors from random ebay shitters unless you know the ebay seller as another vendor elsewhere - like, I'd buy from injectors online** (see my link) on ebay if there was a special or something.

**or any of several others.

R35 injectors are a waste of time, stop being brain washed by the stupid Americans.

Get some nice 3/4 top feeds, in the right size and be done with it. Make sure the injectors are 3/4 length NOT 1/2 length with extenders to make them 3/4 as they will not work!

Some suppliers say they "fit" but really they don't, I learnt the hard way from reading way too much internets. Enjoy the read here:

 

 

 

On 2/2/2019 at 12:27 PM, GTSBoy said:

You want to buy ~1000cc (or more like 1100cc these days) Bosch EV14 based injectors from a reputable supplier.  Get the right length ones for the Neo, with wiring adaptors.  viz https://www.injectorsonline.com/au/fuel-injectors/nissan/rb25-neo.html

You're looking at ~$100 ozzy each.  Not 100 pounds each.

And no, you cannot fit massive injectors and drive it to the dyno.  Get them fitted there.

And do't buy injectors from random ebay shitters unless you know the ebay seller as another vendor elsewhere - like, I'd buy from injectors online** (see my link) on ebay if there was a special or something.

**or any of several others.

thanks, question I have is one of the tuners I spoke to was saying you can't fit a much larger injector than what the car needs. so for instance if you fit a 1000cc to a 400hp, the spray pattern is differnt and can run rich and die in traffic lights by flooding engine.

 

not sure if that is a correct statement but purely what I was told hence checking. it doesn't sound right to me as you can tune the duty cycle but again not sure if the duty cycle is at 10%, what will happen. would you end up with uneven spray ....

 

 

re injectors you suggested, are they a straight fit with a need to do the wiring only ?

On 2/4/2019 at 2:38 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

R35 injectors are a waste of time, stop being brain washed by the stupid Americans.

Get some nice 3/4 top feeds, in the right size and be done with it. Make sure the injectors are 3/4 length NOT 1/2 length with extenders to make them 3/4 as they will not work!

Some suppliers say they "fit" but really they don't, I learnt the hard way from reading way too much internets. Enjoy the read here:

 

so if I read correctly in injector size is 3/4 inch or 1.92 cm for rb25det neo ?

 

 

14 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

thanks, question I have is one of the tuners I spoke to was saying you can't fit a much larger injector than what the car needs. so for instance if you fit a 1000cc to a 400hp, the spray pattern is differnt and can run rich and die in traffic lights by flooding engine.

 

This is true of old school injectors but not the better injectors for sale now.

3 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

This is true of old school injectors but not the better injectors for sale now.

i looked up the bosch injectors, unless I buy it from AU . it is much more expensive in the UK.

 

Almost anything you buy here is twice the price. an extreme clutch and flywheel did cost me £1k in gbp which is around 1.7 aud.

 

can't assume it will be that much in AU. injector dynamic is quite respected and well known here but pricey . has anyone used them ?

how about sard?

19 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

thanks, question I have is one of the tuners I spoke to was saying you can't fit a much larger injector than what the car needs. so for instance if you fit a 1000cc to a 400hp, the spray pattern is differnt and can run rich and die in traffic lights by flooding engine.

 

not sure if that is a correct statement but purely what I was told hence checking. it doesn't sound right to me as you can tune the duty cycle but again not sure if the duty cycle is at 10%, what will happen. would you end up with uneven spray ....

 

 

re injectors you suggested, are they a straight fit with a need to do the wiring only ?

 

3 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

This is true of old school injectors but not the better injectors for sale now.

^ What he said.

Follow Dose Pipe's advice - 3/4 is not a diameter or a length.  It is 3/4 of full length injectors.  The same basic injector is usually available in 1/2, 3/4 and full length.

Also, I have pointed you at injectorsonline.com for a good reason.  Read the info attached to each injector on offer there for Neos.....

checked them out on injectorsonline but that is AU, by the time I pay postage/ tax and ... it cost the same as what I could buy here hence why I wanted to fit r35 injectors as they are way cheaper

 

https://www.injectorsonline.com/gb/fuel-injectors/nissan/rb25-neo/1000cc-xspurt-injectors-x-6.html

 

have you used xsprut ? at £392 doesn't seem to bad

9 hours ago, drifter17a said:

thanks, question I have is one of the tuners I spoke to was saying you can't fit a much larger injector than what the car needs. so for instance if you fit a 1000cc to a 400hp, the spray pattern is differnt and can run rich and die in traffic lights by flooding engine.

Your tuner is a moron, find a new one.

I run 1550cc injectors and my car doesn't die at the lights nor does it flood the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don’t be silly enough to think it’ll never happen either 
    • I take it that you bought the centre to suit the GTR axles? As in there was a plan, not just somehow lucky that it worked? It all looks excellent, by the way.
    • New engine block time. Up to you whether you want to keep going down this road with this project. Unfortunately a lot of these cars are like this. The road to getting these cars into decent shape is long and not fun for reasons that you're discovering. 
    • Essay time. First things first, an RB running stock turbo and boost levels shouldn't get so bad as to stall from reversion if the recirc valve has been deleted. Should get a little fluffy and annoying, but in my experience, not so bad as to stall. Of course, every car is a bit different, so it remains possible that stalling will happen. So, running with no recirc valve is somewhat of an option, for otherwise stock stuff. Atmo BOVs cause all sorts of shit, even on an otherwise stock setup. Only gets worse the higher the boost and the bigger the turbo. At that point you really need to go for a different ECU and no AFM. Rebuilding the stock recirc valve configuration is not hard. You just need a stock or aftermarket BOV with the appropriate adapter for the 2 bolt flange on the back of the J pipe, and to get/make an appropriate ~1" pipe to get the air back to the turbo inlet, and to possibly modify the inlet (if it is not stock) to take the recirc pipe back in. Not hard. Just takes some cutting and welding. Putting an R35 type AFM into the car anywhere is not as simple as just buying the AFM and throwing it in. You will also need to buy the appropriate boss that will then need to be welded onto the pipe where you're installing it. You can clearly see why by looking at the photo posted above. They are not a "simple" swap for a stocker. You can't put on in place of the stock AFM. You can put one in place of the stock AFM, if you get the mounting boss and weld it to some pipe and otherwise make that pipe piece work like the stock AFM housing. Or you can buy such an adapter, either complete with the 4 bolt flange for the air box, or without, for varying degrees of work needed to then make it fit your stock airbox or some pod filter or whatever you have going on. Oh, and the R35 AFM is not plug and play. The wiring is different, but changing that is trivial. The plug is also different so you either end up repinning the original wires onto the new plug, or you just use a short adapter. If you weld a boss to the cold side pipe, the cold side pipe really wants to be 3", otherwise the scaling on the meter can get a bit weird, but whatever the pipe size, it's not as easy as just using the (fully documented in the Nistune doco) simple method for choosing R35 AFM in X" pipe size in the software, because the scaling will already be a bit different. Anyway, all of this has been comprehensively worked through on the Nistune forums, so there is full knowledge available. I would use a Link/Haltech before I would bother putting an AFM into a cold side pipe. That's a lot of effort for a bodge. Nistune is great, can work well even at fairly high power levels, but you are stuck with the limitations of it being the stock ECU, which includes needing to use an AFM, which is not always convenient for every set of modifications. You have to have a think about what you already have, what you want to have, and decide early if you'd be better off jumping ship to an aftermarket ECU. This so you don't waste time and money doing things 2 or 3 times. Never heard of ECUmaster. Sounds like a backyard operation. If there are good tuners for it where you are, and it is a solid product, then it will be fine. We're only talking about an R engine here. Back in the day they all ran on crude nasty early 90s ECUs and they were fine. You don't need a rocket surgeon's ECU to run one.
    • So left off with high hopes of having a gearbox in pretty quickly........ Got the adapter plate that week and had to chase a few threads and work out how/where everything goes as no instructions. Got the adapter fitted, test fitted gearbox and found had to cut and shave a few things. Tunnel required some hits with a decent hammer to give some clearance on passenger side but it fits with no problems,  could fit a 8hp70 with a little more work. For a cross member I wasn't going to spend $1100 on so shiny machined piece. Went through a few designs and remembered I had a gktech s chassis to cd00# cross member. Fitted that and found its close enough with a few extra bits welded so have gone that way and still a work in progress.  After this got into modifying the intercooler with some bends and clamps. I was procrastinating on this as was not keen to cut up and weld it myself but happy with the outcome.  Onto the radiator shroud and oil cooler mount. This thing took way longer than I thought it would but having to add an extra oil cooler for the trans and wanting everything within the chassis rails its good enough for now. It mounts to the chassis and gives plenty of room for lines and pipes. All the coolers are rubber mounted and sealed the shroud on the top and sides, will use some tape to seal the bottom gap of about 10mm. 20250508_111500.mp4   Next job was to build the new diff and after a delay with a friend got built this week. I ended up putting it all together with supervision and was good to learn how to set one up correctly. I ended up going a 3.69 ratio, nismo 1.5 way gt pro with gtr Axel's. Stripped it all down, gave all the parts a good clean, pressed on new bearings and set backlash. Was good working in a clean assembly room with all the gear. Once got home wire wheeled the case and hit it with some rollbar/chassis black paint. Got a few more bits done but will leave them for the next update.
×
×
  • Create New...