Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought a hypergear rb25 turbo beginning of this month and am waiting for it to get shipped to the states. I’d like to replace the current suction rubbery oem crappy hose that it has right now. I fear right now it might be getting partially collapsed under WOT. I found this one here http://www.performance-wise.net/page53.htm

 

anyone else have experience with these?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476045-suction-pipe-for-rb25-turbo/
Share on other sites

^^shithouse. Bad fit, overpriced. Just get a stainless bend, and weld fittings onto it( they're common sizes), and use silicone joiners for pipe sections. That way you can adjust it sectionally to get exactly the right angles/positions, otherwise one solid long pipe will be a PITA to fit right. Can get it all off ebay cheap, and then just replace single piece if making changes in future, rather than having to re-do whole pipe.

Example of mine is shown here

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475731-r33r34-performance-items-some-brand-new-gktech-tein-apexi-nismo/

5 minutes ago, hardsteppa said:

^^shithouse. Bad fit, overpriced. Just get a stainless bend, and weld fittings onto it( they're common sizes), and use silicone joiners for pipe sections. That way you can adjust it sectionally to get exactly the right angles/positions, otherwise one solid long pipe will be a PITA to fit right. Can get it all off ebay cheap, and then just replace single piece if making changes in future, rather than having to re-do whole pipe.

Example of mine is shown here

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475731-r33r34-performance-items-some-brand-new-gktech-tein-apexi-nismo/

It’s too bad you sold yours. 

i sold one, but have another one for sale now - the one pictured later in the thread. Postage to the US might be a bit though mate, might be better locally made? Really only need the fittings welded on  (if you don't have a welder that is) the rest you can make at home.

3 hours ago, hardsteppa said:

No, the more free flowing you can make intake air, and the more available "on tap" the better.

You wouldn’t be suggesting putting a tap in the inlet system? That is preposterous good sir. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Does any of you guys have instagram pages for your builds? Keen to see some Aussie builds. I still can't figure out how to post photos in here.
    • That awesome thanks for that. 
    • You can Remote any of these VR30..globally  Check: AMS Performance | Racebox | Sonic Tune | Soho | Z Motorsports | Specialty Z    Performance Parts | AMS | Z Motorsports | Boosted 6 |    Exhaust | Fast Intentions | ARK | MBRP Motordyne | Borla    There is someone in Sydney with 650whp   I am at 430whp without flex fuel, but FBO & Flex-fuel will push you to 500whp!!  
×
×
  • Create New...