Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 26/03/2019 at 4:09 PM, drifter17a said:

update, pcv removed and redone the fittings and situation is considerably better with minimal oil

 

i bought a second 2 liter catch can

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-2-Litre-Oil-Catch-Can-Tank-Reservoir-with-Billet-Aluminium-Cap-Black/222719067847?hash=item33db1746c7:g:-lEAAOSwyXNaEqW1

 

i have a moshimoto 3 port so a waste to through it away so how i am planning to do it is 2 input from rocker to ins on the moshimoto then output from moshimoto to the newely bought 2 liter can and then output from that can to air .

 

so messiness should be minimised.

 

has anyone here got two catch cans or see an issue with such setup ?

Expand  

Good plan. I have at one point run 2 catch cans until I worked out a better set up.  Some of the Japanese race cars used to run an air oil separator as well as a catch can although a modern air oil separator can make the catch can superfluous (at a much greater cost). But final output should be to the intake not to atmosphere.

Since i have blocked pcv, there is clouds of white smoke on idle and when rev stationary

 

tuner said i could block it and i did but hell a lot of white smoke, anyone?

 

it is not there when engine is reved or at least minimal

 

can it be signs of gasket going?

  On 26/03/2019 at 4:09 PM, drifter17a said:

update, pcv removed and redone the fittings and situation is considerably better with minimal oil

 

i bought a second 2 liter catch can

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-2-Litre-Oil-Catch-Can-Tank-Reservoir-with-Billet-Aluminium-Cap-Black/222719067847?hash=item33db1746c7:g:-lEAAOSwyXNaEqW1

 

i have a moshimoto 3 port so a waste to through it away so how i am planning to do it is 2 input from rocker to ins on the moshimoto then output from moshimoto to the newely bought 2 liter can and then output from that can to air .

 

so messiness should be minimised.

 

has anyone here got two catch cans or see an issue with such setup ?

Expand  

How is the baffling inside that puppy?

  On 27/03/2019 at 4:35 AM, drifter17a said:

Inaide the carch can?

Expand  

Yes mate, inside.

There may be witness markes on the outside from internal welds.

Or, at the very least, internal piping at the "in" which stops it just going straight "out".

If it's hollow it won't do alot, better than nothing I suppose.

Your Mishimoto can has a filter and a baffle I believe to strip out the oil in the air.

I can see oil on the filter on out section confirming oilmis flowinh from out port 

 

it is baffelled and looka like the one below

 

https://www.mishimoto.co.uk/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-3-port-12338.html

 

i am highly suspicious it isndue to the pcv block off as it started as soon as i blocked that port but why i don’t know

  On 27/03/2019 at 4:45 AM, mlr said:

 

Your Mishimoto can has a filter and a baffle I believe to strip out the oil in the air. 

Expand  

mlr is talking about the new catch can you bought.

Hi 

 

fixed the cloud of white smoke by plugging pcv back

when unplugged, i noticed lots of fume coming out from breather rocker cover and catch can filter

 

it is one way and only sees vacumme and shuts on boost

 

me thinking what is it that is causing significant pressure build up in the crank

 

here is pic of my setup

Two rocker cover to catch can and then breathe to air

 

after plugging pcv back, i still see smoke and white i think but a lot less which is coming on when i come off the throttle

what the hell is going on, i am not sure

 

can faulty turbo seals pressurise the crank?

9ECC1DC7-027E-4F2A-8BB8-18E5ED77A831.jpeg

870BFC79-E97F-4022-AF1E-C49CE16CD138.jpeg

  On 27/03/2019 at 11:41 AM, drifter17a said:

Hi 

 

fixed the cloud of white smoke by plugging pcv back

when unplugged, i noticed lots of fume coming out from breather rocker cover and catch can filter

 

it is one way and only sees vacumme and shuts on boost

 

me thinking what is it that is causing significant pressure build up in the crank

 

here is pic of my setup

Two rocker cover to catch can and then breathe to air

 

after plugging pcv back, i still see smoke and white i think but a lot less which is coming on when i come off the throttle

what the hell is going on, i am not sure

 

can faulty turbo seals pressurise the crank?

9ECC1DC7-027E-4F2A-8BB8-18E5ED77A831.jpeg

870BFC79-E97F-4022-AF1E-C49CE16CD138.jpeg

Expand  

That filter near the turbo is concerning. That would be allowing unmetered air into the engine, leaning it out. It really should be blocked.

  • Like 2

it is using map not maf so air is measured from vacumme side.

maf has been removed and replaced with 4 bar link map sensor which can be seen behind the break lines as it is bolted to the panel

i am really not sure of what is going on as i now don't have any smoke like before nor on boost 

it does however sometime comes on when I let the throttle go / come off it after boost but not during boost and it seems to be blue I think which people say it indicate turbo seal issues but my turbo has been rebuilt 200 miles ago!

 

then I am not sure why I have so much fume from pcv when lot of people block it. if i block it my car runs like a tractor as there is tons and tons of white smoke? 

it seems it needs the vacumme to suck it in and burn it

I think..

To much vacum to the motor!

Pcv or vacum breather setup. As you now see.

Is that filter on the inlet side of the turbo?
It looks like its on the boost feed nipple to the actuator wich is on the turbo outlet side and would cause a giant boost leak.

Where is the waste gate feed active nipple ?

  On 27/03/2019 at 2:28 PM, drifter17a said:

yes it is on intake side replacing the return of the rocker cover to engine .

rather than leaving it as it is, i did put a filter on it .

waste gate is feeding from standard place which is on intake pipe ( stock rb25)

Expand  

 

You get away with that with a map ecu, but it is better to block it rather than filter there

 

Planning to and have bought end cap waiting for it to arrive

 

however that isn’t causing the issue i am seeing

 

what I have seems to be lots of fume/ gas from pcv 

i think if i control it then I will stop seeing the smoke . I have bought a seperate catch can to run it in closed loop( pcv to catch can in and catch can out to inlet manifold)

 

i noticed when pcv was blocked , car was a lot torquier and more responsive. 

 

For people with a bit more mechanical knowledge, why would you ser lots of fume and maybe less of oil?

 

have a look at this

The guy has installed a secondary pcv so engine breathes. It seems to me he has drilled a hole and installed the pcv, i guess that is something to try but bot sure on what area of the rocker or even if it is needed as i have seen 500-600 hp cars with standard breather/ pcv setup

 

Edited by drifter17a
  On 27/03/2019 at 2:22 PM, Slap said:

I think..

To much vacum to the motor!

Pcv or vacum breather setup. As you now see.

Is that filter on the inlet side of the turbo?
It looks like its on the boost feed nipple to the actuator wich is on the turbo outlet side and would cause a giant boost leak.

Where is the waste gate feed active nipple ?

Expand  

it cant be too much vacuum to the motor because for one, the catch can is vented to atmosphere. 

if you have a lot of blowby that is as sign of engine condition. a motor cant pull so much vaccum that it pulls oil mist out of the rockers on its own, its blown up and out by the blow by. 

an engine with a fair bit of blowby isnt ideal, but with a decent large catch can can be managed. 

Yes it can be.
He didnt have a breather at first and blocked the pvc.
And yes he had corrected it before i even said.

Are you triping ben?
The smoke was because the oil got sucked.
Not because it was blown out or it would had have shitter compression than a perfectly stable one across em all.
Aswell as he added the breather and it stopped.

Ya see that valve ya love to think works perfect all the time does not and it still allows some boost leakage that also can help reduce the engines vacum when so. Not its intention as its actualy the opposite. But during boost transition it can buger up and even if it sealed for boost , when open OFF BOOST will have a vacum speed far less than and a more stable flow rate than a setup that rips only to the turbo as oil surge being eaten seems to coincide with a spool up surge not so much off boost or at high boost in this instance.
I dont believe its HIS blow by.....maybe for others.
Seeing as he added a breather to the can and it stoped the issue.

  On 28/03/2019 at 2:20 AM, Ben C34 said:
it cant be too much vacuum to the motor because for one, the catch can is vented to atmosphere. 
if you have a lot of blowby that is as sign of engine condition. a motor cant pull so much vaccum that it pulls oil mist out of the rockers on its own, its blown up and out by the blow by. 
an engine with a fair bit of blowby isnt ideal, but with a decent large catch can can be managed. 

I've read that twice and can't make sense of it..

  On 28/03/2019 at 3:33 AM, Slap said:

Yes it can be.
He didnt have a breather at first and blocked the pvc.
And yes he had corrected it before i even said.

Are you triping ben?
The smoke was because the oil got sucked.
Not because it was blown out or it would had have shitter compression than a perfectly stable one across em all.
Aswell as he added the breather and it stopped.

Ya see that valve ya love to think works perfect all the time does not and it still allows some boost leakage that also can help reduce the engines vacum when so. Not its intention as its actualy the opposite. But during boost transition it can buger up and even if it sealed for boost , when open OFF BOOST will have a vacum speed far less than and a more stable flow rate than a setup that rips only to the turbo as oil surge being eaten seems to coincide with a spool up surge not so much off boost or at high boost in this instance.
I dont believe its HIS blow by.....maybe for others.
Seeing as he added a breather to the can and it stoped the issue.

Expand  

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...