Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, Ive read a tonne of posts about this, but most seem to either be about race car camber or lean into a different direction.

So quick info about my situation, driving to work in an r34 25gt, and my front tyre busted, massive wear on the inside, got new tyres and an alignment, the mech said he could only get the camber to -2°, but as mine is a daily and a 25gt, I'm not looking for much camber, would like to get back to even wear on tyres maybe -.75°/-1°.  

Been looking at adjustable upper camber arms, (just incase I ever get rims or decide to lower it) but wanted reviews before I buy, just incase some are notorious for easy breaks, squeaking/clunking after a short time etc

The ones I've looked at are:

SRI - $220

Gktech - $349 (so far thinking these ones) 

Zss - $459

Cusco - $479(heard they are really good for price) 

Driftwork - $216

Hard race - $499

I looked at ikeya formula, but too expensive for a 25gt. Has anyone had good/bad cases with any of the above arms?

Sorry if I've forgotten any details to include for further help. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476716-r34-adjustable-camber-arm-reviews/
Share on other sites

Completely stock height and wheels, I asked the mech what was causing the negative camber and he couldn't tell me, just said I need aftermarket adjustment parts, I asked if anything was bent or seemed damaged and he said no. So how would I go about finding what's caused it? I've never really worked on suspension so I'm outta my element. 

The car has *some* adjustability and there's bushes you can get from Whiteline or Superpro that will adjust camber that is more than enough for a stock height car. They are cheaper, legal, more compliant and overall a better solution that what you listed..

That said, there IS a problem if you can't get less than 2deg neg camber on a stock car. Fixing this is definitely what you would/should/must do first before buying aftermarket arms to sort it out.

This is definitely a "Find someone who knows what the underside of these cars should look like" situation

Ok ill call the smash repairs and see where they get chassis straightening done, but cars never had a crash or anything so not sure if chassis is damaged but worth a look, I might even get a 2nd place to try and align it, as I read a post on SAU where someone had the same deal, 1 place couldn't align it, but another could, the mech could be trying to stitch me up for extra work. 

We have have a 25GT with standard suspension, the front and rear camber is pretty close to neutral with little to no wear on the inside.  Common for cars that are lowered on springs or coliovers to exert excessive rear camber, is your issue on the front or rear?

JGTC it's front suspension that's my issue, but I may see if I can get the stuff gtsboy stated above checked out, cause I've never had a problem with wheel alignments till now, recently replaced the right control arm as the ball joint was buggered, and the radius arm bushes. So ill get the other bushes and arms checked, but thought they would notice something wrong when doing the alignment, i also jacked the car up and had a look and couldn't see any other damage, besides what I've gotten fixed. 

That's what I'm thinking, had a look myself (I'm a fkn noob) noticed the radius arm bushes and ball joint, but didn't notice anything else, really hoping I fall in the category of having a shite mechanic, will book in with another place, ask for stats of camber, toe etc, and post for you pros to help me, appreciate the help from all, glad I didn't buy the arms. This is why I love SAU. 

I run around 2.75 deg neg front camber on a daily driven street car, and i have very little issue with inside tyre wear. Toe, worn components or bent arms/chassis are likely to be the real issue.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

So I was a victim of a shoddy mechanic, went to a new place today for an alignment, and afterwards they said they got it down to -1°. Which I'm happy with. Turns out the toe was the culprit. Glad I asked SAU before buying camber arms. Cheers fellas. 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...