Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Recently had my 350GT (purchased 2 months ago) serviced and was told I had the following issues with approx. prices to have them fixed:

* Rear brake pads (estimated approximately $180)
* Inoperative high mount stop lamp (estimated approximately $250 repaired/ approximately $190 second-hand)

* Front lower control arms (estimated approximately $800 for both sides)
* Worn rear sway bar links (estimated approximately $250 for both sides)
* Worn rear wheel bearings (estimated approximately $1100 for both sides)

How are the prices on these? They seem excessive but just wanted someone with knowledge to validate it for me.

Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by jsmit94
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476814-work-to-be-done-on-my-350gt/
Share on other sites

Did they say what's wrong with the front control arms? Could the bushings just be replaced for a lot of those?
SuperPro/Whiteline make a lot of bushings for V35.

Some of those prices seem a bit steep, depends on if they're using OEM parts and what their hourly rate is for labour.

1 hour ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Did they say what's wrong with the front control arms? Could the bushings just be replaced for a lot of those?
SuperPro/Whiteline make a lot of bushings for V35.

Some of those prices seem a bit steep, depends on if they're using OEM parts and what their hourly rate is for labour.


 

Well he said that the bushes were 'broken', and then he said the whole control arms need replacing. 

The cars steering pulls pretty badly to the left, is this a symptom of that?

Edited by jsmit94

The brake pad price is fine, for decent pads + fitting.

The highmount brake light price could be fine or it could be ridiculous.  Depends on why it's dead, what needs to be replaced.

i concur with Leroy that the rest of the prices look a bit mad.  I wouldn't expect to pay that much for the rear wheel bearings.  Maybe half that, maybe a bit more than half. The control arms almost certainly don't need to be replaced.  New bushes.  The ARB links can't be that expensive.  I just put 4 onto my car for less than that.  The most expensive Whiteline ones are only ~$150 and they take 15 minutes to swap on the hoist.

Holy shit that wheel bearing price....

I just had both the rears done on my v36.. $250 for brand new ones shipped and $220 for installation. 
$1100 is insane.

Rear brake pads you can do yourself (unless you prefer not) and save the labour cost.
 

2 hours ago, The Max said:

Your mechanic is (figuratively) a rapist. Find someone either honest or who actually knows how to fix cars with the right amount of effort and parts.

yeah seems like it now.. Thought I could trust someone who says they have worked as a mechanic in Japan, says they specialise in Jap imports and actually sources parts through their Japanese business to not rip me off, considering the experience they have. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to go to in Sydney? 
I'm from around Bankstown, so anywhere closeish to me (an hour away max) would be awesome.

Edited by jsmit94
8 hours ago, jsmit94 said:

yeah seems like it now.. Thought I could trust someone who says they have worked as a mechanic in Japan, says they specialise in Jap imports and actually sources parts through their Japanese business to not rip me off, considering the experience they have. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to go to in Sydney? 
I'm from around Bankstown, so anywhere closeish to me (an hour away max) would be awesome.

To be honest dude my local ultratune services mine. Majority of 350z parts will fit your car so any mechanic will do it fine.

  • Like 1

Go to Adrian's Auto Centre at 100 Parramatta Rd Croydon. The workshop access is in the lane behind the car dealership. He's the guy I go to when it's not something I can do in my own driveway. No, he doesn't charge dealership prices and definitely runs an honest workshop.

11 hours ago, jsmit94 said:

yeah seems like it now.. Thought I could trust someone who says they have worked as a mechanic in Japan, says they specialise in Jap imports and actually sources parts through their Japanese business to not rip me off, considering the experience they have. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to go to in Sydney? 
I'm from around Bankstown, so anywhere closeish to me (an hour away max) would be awesome.

I've been working on Japanese cars for over 25 years (I'm 30), I can source parts directly from Jesse Streeter (who lives in Japan) and partsouq (UAE).

Don't believe everything people say.

I sorted the high mount stop light on my old 250GT for $12.50 plus my own time - bought a Red 12 volt SMD LED strip from eBay, mounted it to a piece of black plastic and glued the whole thing into the existing housing. Looked great, worked great, passed inspection with zero issues

1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

I've been working on Japanese cars for over 25 years (I'm 30), I can source parts directly from Jesse Streeter (who lives in Japan) and partsouq (UAE).

Don't believe everything people say.

I guess it was more the reviews on their business that made me believe them, didn't expect someone with such good reviews to be so overpriced lol. I don't doubt that their work is good, but price-wise I think I will go elsewhere.

On 4/29/2019 at 3:15 PM, DashyyPC said:

Holy shit that wheel bearing price....

I just had both the rears done on my v36.. $250 for brand new ones shipped and $220 for installation. 
$1100 is insane.

Rear brake pads you can do yourself (unless you prefer not) and save the labour cost.
 

Where did you order the bearings from?

21 hours ago, fatz said:

Cofff have whole rear hubs in Sydney for a slab of beer

 

cooooofffdddd

haha I appreciate the offer man but because this car came with no evidence at all of any work that was done to it, i'd rather go to a place where I can get a tax invoice to show for it. Thanks anyways legend ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just wanted to unearth this and post my baby with the new front ❤️😝 Took her to my wedding rehearsal today. Next up is getting wide skirts (after wedding)
    • Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
×
×
  • Create New...