Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All

 

was out on drift day and car was shit

 

it actted like open diff and having read many posts everyone says it is lsd however they wear and either need ri shimming or change oil

 

some said it is open in first and lsd kicks in, in second gear which again mine was spinning on one side throughout

 

so what would you do?

 

don’t want to weld it as it is a daily car

 

secondly hicas has not being removed so it still has hicas but fuse pulled

 

could hicas even though off be causing it to work as open diff?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476866-r34-rear-diff-lsd/
Share on other sites

You don't say what kind of car you have. Never heard of an LSD which was "open in 1st" nor that a change of oil will fix it.

What would I do? What I did  for my car was to buy a rear end from an R32 GTR which gave me a mechanical LSD, GTR axles and brakes and in your case would do away with the HiCas.

Or you could just get a known good or new LSD and a proper HiCas delete kit.

  • Like 1

Stock diff is a viscous LSD, changing the gear oil inside the diff housing won't so anything.

Your options are (starting from cheapest

1. Shim up it's mum up

2. Hit the centre with a welder, weld up it's mum 

3. Install a helical centre from a R34 GT-t Series 2 (rare as shit, but maybe you'll find one in the UK out of a stolen burnt out wreck because some lads took it for  spin)

4. Buy a proper LSD.

i quite like option 1 .

 

my car is r34 gtt 98.

 

don't want to buy the entire rear end from gtr as that will be expensive and too much work.

have seen following as well which i suppose involves removing my internal and installing this 

 

https://www.driftworks.com/kaaz-lsd-differential-for-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34.html

As if you only have to buy from the UK.  You could get it something direct from Japan, you could probably call Quaife (if you wanted a helical) and get them to make you one right there in the UK.  You could go and watch them make it.

I wouldn't weld a diff....too crudo 1990s stylo for me. Horrible to live with too. As I said, do it properly, or don't do it at all.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...