Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Getting around to doing the much needed maintenance on my skyline. 

It's a 1991 R32 GT-R. I realized that it still has the stock shocks and pretty sure they're blown. Pretty bouncy in the rear and the roads here in TX suck. 

Is there a strut that can be interchanged with the stock ones. All I see when I look up the part  number on the strut is OEM from Japan for way more than I'd like to pay. For the price of 2 I minus well get some coilovers. 

Pic for reference with the part number: 

56210-05U0020190517_193615.thumb.jpg.5b4fe31d1b968398b5b1f032db6ba715.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477080-r32-gtr-rear-strut-replacement/
Share on other sites

Just now, GTSBoy said:

No non nonononononono.

Why use stock type stuff? If you wish to retain stock type, at least upgrade to Bilstein B6. Otherwise, there are a large number of excellent coilover options in the US, and here.

Or that, Haha. Coilovers are probably best, but depends on your budget

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Budget is not a consideration. Anyone who owns an R32 GTR has already committed to spending the purchase price again every 2 years.

Not meeeeeee :D

 

OP, you should have local Koni and Bilstein options. Hell, if you have standard springs, throw some KYB dampers in and enjoy.

If you're after adjustability, spend the money on KW (unless you just want height adjustment, then you can get TEIN street, they're relatively comfortable and cheaper).

Nismo S-Tune is a good bolt in upgrade, KYB dampers and uprated springs. Dunno if it's worth the money though.

E.g.:

https://www.tein.com/srch/us_search.php?maker=NISSAN&carmodel=SKYLINE&modelyear=1989-1994&item=default

Yeah I didnt see the point in buying stock when they're almost the price of some good coils. I was just looking to see if there was some cross over stock rear struts I can use and get locally. I appreciate the feed back and the links. Actually seen some twins for about 900 the demon tweeks website has them for cheaper but I wonder if that's not including shipping. 

Teins have traditionally had very hard springs and dampers that may or may not have been appropriately matched. They have reputedly gotten a lot better in the last 10 years, but I'm still leery of them. Hell, even just 7(?) years ago I decided to go with modified Bilsteins and separate springs rather than coilovers. But these days, I would just spend the money. ~$2.5k buys you a hell of a lot of very well built coilover these days.

5 hours ago, Jjtxaz24 said:

So are the teins listed above a cheap alternative? Poor ride quality? Cant be worse than these blown shocks I have now. 

My friends 33 gtr came off the boat with a set of tein coilovers and if you told me it had some 4x4 fence post cut to size and stuck in there to hold the car up I would have believed it. The ride was so stiff you would lift out of the seat if you hit a dip in the road, after an afternoon out you were sore. I took them off the car and installed a different set a year or two ago but I can'r remember the brand off the top of my head.  Ive heard good thing about the fortune 500 coilovers with swift springs, built in the states so easy to get but I haven't had any first had experience.

Comparing used Bilstein in my Subaru wagon, the TEIN Street Basis Z is quite comfortable. Body control is overall on par (some positives, some negatives). For example, the short travel you can definitely feel, but the "softer" dampening controls bumps quite well even on 6kg/5kg springs. Considering the price, if you're after some standard replacements + lowering they are great.

Note that Street is different to the other TEINs, which would be rough as (e.g. the old ones that I had on my 32R).

It really depends on your intended use and how much you want to spend.

I'm not going to be tracking or racing the car. My use at the moment until I get the maintenance done and all the little things out the way will be just daily driving it and hitting up car shows. Cars not in rough shape but it does have its imperfections. Once that's done I can focus in the stuff I really wanna do and get a little more horsepower out of it.

The roads here in TX arent the best. Pretty rough in most parts. Suspension at the moment is super soft, well the rears are. I'm not sure how the GTR suspension is stock but it looks to be rear struts are Original and the fronts are some sort of coils. The level the car sits at is great though. Heres some pics. IMG_1374.thumb.jpg.95435d3b4c3609d09c80ae4ace263b61.jpg20190511_201631.thumb.jpg.f903d87517147e9ae636387d4f335c37.jpg

when I had it lifted off the floor see how droopy the rear suspension is? 

20190516_183557.thumb.jpg.5095cfafcaf97c7d54999169e1cf5714.jpg

 

  • Like 1

If you go Tein you really need the Mono tube stuff. The valving is far superior compared to any of the Tein twin tube stuff. I had Tein NR twin tube about 7 - 10 years ago and they were so shit, super hard, very bad dampening twin tube shock, way worse than stock GTR shocks. Got rid of them and went Tein Mono flex about 5 years ago and was completely amazed at the difference. Excellent twisty stuff control, compliant on rough roads, way more so than any stock Gtr, evo, sti or wrx suspension I've been in. Definitely better on bad roads than my 2001 or 2015 wrx's or my stock 33 v spec suspension. No problem with high speeds either, like 250kph+ on undulating highway roads (we had open speed limits then), and Mono flex is supposed to be track coilovers.

Stretch for some good mono tube based ones if you can afford it, the valving difference is worth it. If you just want to replace the blown shocks with something decent from Tein I'm sure the streets will be adequate enough, as it will still be better than brand new Nissan suspension, let alone stuffed ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...