Rack end confusion

[CowsWithGuns]

Hi guys,

I bought my first Skyline (1998 R34 GTT, 220km) last week and am in the process of sorting all the issues with it. The mechanic identified issues with 'left rear inner rack end' and 'right front rack end'. I've been trying to find the right part to buy for the last 1-2 hours now and I'm confused beyond belief. Sparesbox straight up doesn't identify my car, and supercheap has many rack ends of clearly different specs (ranging from 258 to 291mm in length), and some of them indicate 4 wheel steering, others 2 wheel steering and others don't specify. As far as I understand, my car has HICAS, and I assume the front and rear rack ends are different, but it's still very ambiguous what parts I'm actually looking for. And the issue extends where I don't know what tie rod would complement it.

1. Should I go ahead and get all four rack ends replaced, or just the ones that are clearly bust?
2. Is this a good time to change the tie rods too or should I hold off (I'm on a budget but it's not extremely tight)?
3. Is there a difference between a 'rack end' and an 'inner rack end'?
4. Is there anywhere I can find clear parts lists/specs for my car? It would make things so much easier...

I apologise for these noob questions. I've gone to town on the search bar to little avail.

 

 

 

[GTSBoy]

My advice is to buy a HICAS delete kit for the rear end and lose the rear rack ends forever. HICAS is pathetic.

The "right front rack end" is too vague to know exactly what he means. The inner rack end? The tie rod end?

There is no need to change tie rods.

JustJap, Kudos Motorsports, Amayama, eBay, are all good places to get parts for these cars.

[admS15]

Supercheap and spares box aren't the right place to be looking. Try kudos motorsports, if you still can't work out what you need, give them a call. Just jap and taarks are also good suppliers for skyline bits.

 

Edit looks like gtsboy beat me to it.

[CowsWithGuns]

Thank you very much gtsboy and adm. This helps a lot.

As a followup question, I also need a new fan clutch. The Nissan one here is nearly $500, but I found aftermarkets that supposedly fit for $200 or less. In this case (and for all future cases) what's the best way to approach confirming if a part will fit? I no longer trust the 'it fits' given by SCA and sparesbox etc.

 http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/cooling-viscous-coupling-suit-nissan-skyline-gts25-gts25-25gt-25gt-25gt-stagea-wc34-p-1247.html

[GTSBoy]

Sadly, I don't think there is a workable non-Nissan fan clutch option. I have had a number of different aftermarket ones (proper Davies Craig, various others) when I had to replace mine and they all sucked. They all made my car sound like a Patrol (noisy roar). Clearly not the actual right clutch for an RB. Set to lock up too cold.

So I bought a couple of 2nd hand genuine ones. Fitted one, put the other in the shed for the future. If I had to do it again I would save the pain and buy the $500 genuine one.

These cars may be getting cheaper, but these sorts of parts are evaporating and the prices are going up. They won't be cheap to keep on the road in a few years.

[CowsWithGuns]

Woah you just saved me a lot of heartache. Time to go looking for a second hand clutch. Thanks bro

[hardsteppa]

how did you go with the rack ends, find what you need? Info is here from the Roadsafe catalogue. 

rack end is exactly that; the bit that screws into the steering rack, and tie rod end goes onto the end of those. It's worth replacing all as they're important lol, and you need a wheel alignment after replacing any 1 of them. Bursons are a better place to get these, rather than Supercheap or Repco.

GK Tech do a cut-to-length rack end that are good/cheap, and a great cromoly hicas delete bar too. 

[MrStabby]

Re fan clutch, the one in the Kudos photo looks like it might be re-fillable (the screws on the periphery). Check out the DIY in my sig for instructions.

[GTSBoy]

5 hours ago, MrStabby said:

Re fan clutch, the one in the Kudos photo looks like it might be re-fillable (the screws on the periphery). Check out the DIY in my sig for instructions.

But that would be a genuine Nissan one, which would be the best choice and wouldn't need to be opened up for surgery anyway, for the next 20 years at least.

Having said that.....if the OP's clutch can be opened, then yes....great. Consider the surgical option.

Edited July 6, 2019 by GTSBoy

[MrStabby]

Yeah the thought process was; the picture on the Kudos page is probably an OEM R34 one, and therefore the one on the car would be refillable.

[CowsWithGuns]

Hey team. Been busy inspecting and learning - I've sorted out all the parts I need replacing, except for the rear hicas bullshit.

Turns out my car already has a lockout bar installed, but the rear left wheel still rocks side to side. In the prepurchase inspection I was told it likely has a bad wheel bearing (I was buying interstate) - the wheel bearing is fine (no up-down movement at all). Nevertheless, on both rear sides the outer hicas tie rod ends are clearly f**ked, and that's $200, and I have my doubts about the health of the inner tie rod ends - another $200 for parts alone.

Am I missing some solution here?

I discovered the difference between a lockout and eliminator. So I just need to find an eliminator, should be easy.

 

Edited July 6, 2019 by CowsWithGuns