Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Installing Link Can Lambda in my R33 Skyline, it wants the power to the wideband to be its own seperate source from a relay. Issue is my battery in my r33 is in the boot, would I need to run one separate wire from the battery, then run it thru the fuse box to a 10 amp (as per diagram supplied by Link) and then to a new relay I'll have to setup in the engine bay? Is running a fuse inline not really the done thing, I was going to do this but a mate suggested against it. 

Also the intake air temperature sensor, is that best to be in the cooler piping before the throttle body? I'd assume you wouldn't want it on the intake side of the turbo. 

Power doesn't have to come on a separate wire all the way from the battery. There is a large power distribution device in the form of the fusebox itself, and the main cable from the battery (to the fusebox, starter, etc) HAS to also be in the engine bay....

But yes, put a proper fuse into the fuse box if you can.

IAT should be just before throttle. Yes.

  • 2 months later...
On 7/5/2019 at 6:34 AM, GTSBoy said:

Power doesn't have to come on a separate wire all the way from the battery. There is a large power distribution device in the form of the fusebox itself, and the main cable from the battery (to the fusebox, starter, etc) HAS to also be in the engine bay....

But yes, put a proper fuse into the fuse box if you can.

IAT should be just before throttle. Yes.

Thanks gts, in the fuse box on my vehicle they have relays in the engine bay. 

I have found a narva relay which is similar would need slight modification to fit. 

So I'd need to fit the relay into the fusebox, would I piggy back the power off another relay as they all seem to have a separate wire for 12v positive. 

And then after powering the relay use a 10 amp fuse inline as the wideband will use 8.1amp max. Should I use the ignition as signal for the relay to turn on? 

There should be a big fat feed wire to the fusebox. That's what provides power to all the relays and fuses. Find a way to tap that.

Use decent heavy wire to run the power to the wideband and put a 15A fuse on it. The fuse it to protect the wire - not anything else. If the wire can handle 25A, and you have a 15A fuse on it, it is well protected. If you have a 10A fuse on a circuit that pulls 8+A, then you may be running the fuse quite hot - which is not always a good idea.

  • Thanks 1
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

There should be a big fat feed wire to the fusebox. That's what provides power to all the relays and fuses. Find a way to tap that.

Use decent heavy wire to run the power to the wideband and put a 15A fuse on it. The fuse it to protect the wire - not anything else. If the wire can handle 25A, and you have a 15A fuse on it, it is well protected. If you have a 10A fuse on a circuit that pulls 8+A, then you may be running the fuse quite hot - which is not always a good idea.

Good point, I wouldn't of thought about that. 

This wiring stuff is confusing, if I buy a 15 amp fused relay and run decent gauge wiring that should be ok?

Is putting a new relay in the right way to do it, and would running the power wire along the existing loom be ok? 

Thank you mate. 

Edited by Blakeo

Just tap it off the ignition barrel (which is generally butchered up by an alarm immobilization point). Then run it to a nice fuse bus (future proofing for a dash, logger, etc.). Narva make fuse buses that hold 5x blade fuses with a clear lid with 2x legs so you're able to neatly surface mount it.

On 9/10/2019 at 4:07 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just tap it off the ignition barrel (which is generally butchered up by an alarm immobilization point). Then run it to a nice fuse bus (future proofing for a dash, logger, etc.). Narva make fuse buses that hold 5x blade fuses with a clear lid with 2x legs so you're able to neatly surface mount it.

Sounds a bit sketchy, is there no way to add a new relay to fusebox and run the can lambda off that? 

Has anyone done that before? 

Of course you can add to the main fusebox. But it really wants to be the sort of relay that actually fits in there, not some Autocheap/Superbarn Narva box. Same with fuse holders. You just have to get the stuff you need and put the effort in. Props for wanting to be neat and tidy about it. 99% of Skyline owners would just hang the new relay on 15' of wire and let it drag behind the car.

  • Haha 1
1 hour ago, Blakeo said:

Sounds a bit sketchy, is there no way to add a new relay to fusebox and run the can lambda off that? 

Has anyone done that before? 

I've done it to all the cars I've installed it to... how do you think gauges and race dashes, etc. are installed? (unless you go ham tits out with a PDM).

7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I've done it to all the cars I've installed it to... how do you think gauges and race dashes, etc. are installed? (unless you go ham tits out with a PDM).

Wouldn't it be better to run a seperate relay though?

On 9/12/2019 at 3:46 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You're over thinking it, considering there's such a low current draw in the scheme of things. But if you're committed then sure, why not.

 

Hi Dose, I started setting up the wiring today bought one of those fuse bus. I took power from the ignition as recommended, I used multi-meter to find the switchable power. Everything seemed to be fine, sensor came on and warmed up started to give ecu reading of lambda. Went for a 5 minute drive to datalog, and smoke started to come out of the ignition turned car off straight away. I used 16 AWG TXL wire which should handle 8amps of power.

I'm thinking maybe wire wasn't good enough and I should run 14 AWG but I'm not confident that's the cause. Fuse didn't blow either and it was a 5amp fuse. 

On 9/9/2019 at 10:48 PM, GTSBoy said:

There should be a big fat feed wire to the fusebox. That's what provides power to all the relays and fuses

Maybe should have paid attention to this suggestion. WTF so many people think ignition switches are good power distributors has me F**ked. Its a bloody SWITCH not a power distribution point. But you just learned that the hard way eh eh.

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it THINK.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
2 hours ago, Blakeo said:

I took power from the ignition as recommended, I used multi-meter to find the switchable power.

Any power taken from the ignition switch should only be used to energize a relay this minimizes current draw on the switch.

  • Like 1
19 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Maybe should have paid attention to this suggestion. WTF so many people think ignition switches are good power distributors has me F**ked. Its a bloody SWITCH not a power distribution point. But you just learned that the hard way eh eh.

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it THINK.

Yes I do see the logic in doing this, it's just that I found my old boost controller was hooked up to the ignition and it was less work to wire it up like this. 

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

More so he used thin wiring, that was the cause of the smoke, not the ignition barrel not being able to support the draw from a wideband o2.

I've stepped it up to 14 awg which is rated to 20amps on the package no issue yet. 

On 9/11/2019 at 3:38 PM, GTSBoy said:

99% of Skyline owners would just hang the new relay on 15' of wire and let it drag behind the car.

This says it all, the easy way not the best way. Anyone heard of Best Practice. Anyone!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...