Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

I have a 97 BCNR33. 

I recently bought a second hand set of the Nismo Weldina NE-1 Exhaust system. From the front to the back. 

s-l640.jpg

I took it to my mechanic that usually does all my mods and maintenance, but he has had trouble installing it.

He said that the Catalyst Sensor Assembly had rusted and needed replacing. 
We went ahead and bought a new one.

IMG-20190702-WA0004.jpg
s-l300.jpg

But now he has an issue attaching it to the nismo exhuast pipe as there is no pre drilled hole or fixing to hold or house the sensor.

I’ve googled Nismo R33 Weldina NE-1 Exhaust system installation problems or guides but nothing comes up apart from sales links and no one seems to have had this issue on the forum either. 

Is my mechanic barking up the wrong tree or is there a way round this please? 

Thank you

That temperature sensor is designed to tell you if the cat has failed and is blocked, it simply turns on a warning light on the dash if the exhaust is too hot. Everyone just disconnects it which is probably why there is nowhere to attach it to the new exhaust.

The r34 GTR does have a separate exhaust sensor in the dump pipes for dash display

Thank you for your reply. 

What is surprising to me is that nismo hadn't designed the exhaust system with this OEM sensor part in mind. Normally these top class Japanese products are meticulous. 

Moreover, this unit is second hand...so how did the previous owner get around this issue. 

My mechanic has suggested fabricating a boss but I am hesitant on drilling in to such a nice product.

Either just tape the sensor up out of the way or weld a bung in for it. Neither are difficult nor destructive.

As to why Nismo didn't make a spot for it......the original system has one cat, hence one good spot to fit a single sensor. The Nismo system has 2 cats, so it doesn't have a good spot to fit a single sensor. Seeing as fitting such a system implies no longer giving a f**k about trivial things like cat over temp sensors, they took the sensible approach and omitted it. Besides, if you had it, and you had a fault on the other pipe....you wouldn't know. Better to have your ignorance spread evenly over both pipes.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...