Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did plan to measure the combustion chamber on the de neo head but simply forgot, i would expect them to cc the same as det neo.

I used the runners from det neo with a plazmaman intake, only because i already had it setup on a built motor in the car previously 

  • Like 1
8 minutes ago, Dil-Dog said:

@NEO25T did a CNC machine do that?

Nah this was full budget this time round i just opened them up with die grinder, no machining done at all. I just cleaned and measured everything, light hone on the block, cleaned everything again, and again, slapped in some valve stem seals and threw it together.

  • Like 1

@NEO25T wow bro that is really beautiful,  so did a cnc machine "port" your head to the bigger DET holes? what coil packs are you running? is that timing belt cover from a series 2, because it looks like the steel ones and not the plastic NEO ones? and LASTLY, for you catch can, what the fittings you used to fit in the standard holes in the valve covers? i know its AN but can you explain how you made it work, i would like to do the same as well

 

6 hours ago, Dil-Dog said:

@NEO25T wow bro that is really beautiful,  so did a cnc machine "port" your head to the bigger DET holes? what coil packs are you running? is that timing belt cover from a series 2, because it looks like the steel ones and not the plastic NEO ones? and LASTLY, for you catch can, what the fittings you used to fit in the standard holes in the valve covers? i know its AN but can you explain how you made it work, i would like to do the same as well

 

Nah it was all done by hand with die grinder, just traced the gasket. I didnt take many pics but started by knife edging the divider then slightly open the bowls to same size as the seats, smoothed the radius of the short turn and slightly opened the ports to same size as det head then just blended it out to the marks from the gasket, i dont think id like to see any flow bench results lol.

Those are r35gtr coils from prp.

Yeah its just a cover from a hydro 25 as i dont like the look of the neo ones, rb20 cam covers on it too.

I did weld fittings in the cam covers on the other motor but these ones um i forget.....

I think those are the standard nissan ones i cut and welded with -12 fittings, you can get them push in to an but the ones i seen were straight so you had to put a 90 degree hose fitting and they stuck up and i didn't like how it looked, ill take a pic if i remember in the next day or 2

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Just an update for future readers and any one else who may be able to learn from this or wanna do the same.... it works, i put manely h beams and cp turbo neo pistons with acl bearings with no problems. The head cc/size is the same. It is possible to forge a de with det parts 

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...

Hey all I’m just in the process of building another rb25de neo engine for my car as my current engine didn’t seem to want to make more than 300rwkw but made good midrange 250 at 4000rpm. I’m wondering if u have a before and after Dyno sheet I’m looking to do a freedy intake polished ports , h beam rods, port and polish head and polished chambers, det cams, ARP studs and aim for 370 to 400 I may have to do pistons but can’t find info on max power from a stock piston motor

45 minutes ago, X Drifter said:

Hey all I’m just in the process of building another rb25de neo engine for my car as my current engine didn’t seem to want to make more than 300rwkw but made good midrange 250 at 4000rpm. I’m wondering if u have a before and after Dyno sheet I’m looking to do a freedy intake polished ports , h beam rods, port and polish head and polished chambers, det cams, ARP studs and aim for 370 to 400 I may have to do pistons but can’t find info on max power from a stock piston motor

Why though? Get a different turbo

Well, the DE ports are small, so they will become a restriction on max power long before they would on a DET head. It's not surprising that you start to hit a wall.

Your options are to use a DET head or spend some time/money in digging the extra metal out of the ports. I know which would be easier!

Freddy intake is neither here nor there as far as power is concerned. You will make the power just as easily with a stock plenum. So if you're planning to change it for power reasons, spend the money elsewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...