Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last weekend myself and AdzMax went down to Meridian Motorsport http://www.m-msport.com.au and negotiated an SAU discount for all you punters out there. The knowlegable blokes at Meridian are prepared to give 15% discount to any SAU member on a single buy (1x) or 20% discount on a group buy (5x +) All kits can come with either pushlock hose or braided lines. A 19 row sereck oil cooler and speedflow fittings (see pic) These are a generic kit and I assume will fit all model skylines. Only thing that may vary is the hose length.

Oil Cooler Kit without remote filter (Pricing based on enough hose to mount in drivers side front bar. More suited to GTST or GTT)

Blue Pushlock Hose: Retail $550, 15% $465, 20% $440

Braided Lines: Retail $650, 15% $555, 20% $520

Oil Cooler Kit with remote filter (Based on 3.5m of hose. Mounting in left side of bar. Suited to GTR)

Blue Pushlock Hose: Retail $935, 15% $800, 20% $750

Braided Lines: Retail $1025, 15% $875, 20% $825

If the car is going to be/is modified & will be used on the track more than occasionally suggest owners go with the braided line as it is far stronger & the braid will cope with more abrasion. The blue stuff does the job fine thou. Just ask Snowman. This kit is on his R34 GTR and keeps the temps under 110 all day round the track.

These kits can be easily installed yourself, but installation can be negotiated with Meridian if your not the handy type. I will be going down to Meridian on Friday or Sat morning to get the rest of my kit.

--== EDIT ==--

SAU NICK...NAME...CAR...COOLER REQUIRED...PRICE...PAID

1. Scotsman, Chris, R33 GTR, Remote, Braided, 3.5m, $825 Yes

2. GTTR34, R34 ?? , Remote, Braided, 3.5m, $825, No

3. macattack, Peter, R33 GTR, Remote, Pushlock, 3.5m, $750+20 (Freight), Yes

4. AdzMax, Aaron, R34 GTT, No Remote Filter, Pushlock, 1.5m, $440, Yes

5. Bass Junky, R34 GTT, No

6. Trust R33, R33GTST, No Remote Filter,Pushlock,1.5m, $440+Frieght, Pay Meridian

7. R31Nismoid, Ash, R31, ??+Fitting, No

8. Al, Alan C, R33 Gtst, No Remote Filter, Pushlock, $440, Yes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47931-oil-cooler-kit-suit-gtr-and-gtstgtt/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Excellent. Thanks Chris, I spoke to the guy at Meridian Motorsports today.. I'm down for one of these kits for sure.. I'll get the filter relocation kit with the braided lines.

What about a thermostat? is that an option?

:cheers:

Was wondering what is the shipping cost to get it down to Sydney?

so with all the discount and if a group buy goes ahead, its $825

and thats for the oil cooler braided lines etc correct?

Hey guys - just my 2 cents in here. Meridian did my set-up at the start of the year (with remote filter) and it's been working great. I'm using the blue push lock hose and fittings. This stuff isn't your average garden hose style stuff and would fully recommend it to everyone. If anyone is in Melb I'm more than happy to let you check out my set-up but honestly for what this is doing braided line is a huge over kill IMO.

Oil temps come up to the mid 80's very quickly but even after 30min flat out track session oil temps are staying around 110.

Ah great work Scoty. Was very impressed with the kits and I'll put my hand up first for a kit for my GT-T.

For all of you who are wondering why the GTSGTT kit does not use a remote filter it's becuase when we were there I trial fitted a kit to my car to get an idea where everything would go. With the location of the filter and the oil cooler mounting position there really wasnt much use in a remote filter as it offered no advantage except for a very small increase in oil volume because the factory filter position and the remote filter location would be so close. The GTS and GTT install is a LOT easier than the GTR as the cooler can sit on the same side as the oil filter so less hose is used and this shows in the kit price.

End the end it's up to you though it you want a remote filter simply add it in. I think they said it was round an extra $50 plus maybe a couple of fittings. Maybe Scotsman can confirm this?

These prices are for complete kits as we both had our cars there to work out all the partslengths needed.

A thermostat is a bit of overkill IMO as temps here unless your living in the snow arn't going to be a mojor issue plus the R34's have a heat echanger setup right before the oil filter that is used to bring it up to temp.

Any chance of seeing some photos of the engine bay?

I can arrange it - but as far as this topic goes all you will get out of the picture will be a look at the remote filter which you can see in scotmans picture anyways. The hoses come out of the bottom of the block and run under the intercooler and my oil coolers is located kinda behind my front bar on the passenger side.

You can't really see anything from the engine bay to do with the oil cooler!

Ok Q & A Time.

GTT R34 - If you definately want a thermostat then organise this with Toby @ Meridian. I think it can be done, just requires two extra fittings and the in-line thermo.

GTshorty - $825 will get you the cooler, braided lines, all fittings and remote filter.

Will find out prices for shipping to Sydney, Adelaide and Brisbane.

Ferni - Fitting is not in this price, but can be negotiated with Meridian. They are expecting to fit a few for us, but would not give me an exact price for all members, because they havn't fitted one to a skyline before. Which is fair enough. But they do fit their coolers to all sorts of race cars and do have the experience to do the job. Installing the cooler is a simple job and I recommend everyone gives it a go.

The GTST/GTT people can also use the remote filter if they wish, and can even mount it in the left side also to increase their oil volume. Like wise GTR people can have no remote fileter also. The kit is customizable and is a generic. Where things are mounted and where lines run are up to you.

Just had a response from them; thought I'd post it. For the $75 extra I'll go full kit with braid. Subject to pricing on inclusion of thermostat (I may go back to Canberra which is f* cold in winter) and price on remote only (highest priority) then I'm in.

I closed the other thread. :cheers: John

One thing the gtr is really begging for is an oilcooler! I don't know why Nissan in

their wisdom failed to fit one!!!

Being in a rather hot part of Australia I would suggest you fit one - especially if

you plan on taking your car out onto the track occasionally as they will literally

cook the oil in no time!

(I can also supply engine parts - full gasket sets, rings, bearings etc)

Braded line is certainly stronger & tougher (and not prone to any road debris like

other unshielded hose is) than the blue gat hose - but it is also about twice the

price! - hence the reason I did the prices for the 2 kits.

As I told (SAU) I an uncertain on the individual hose lengths as we

have not recorded them in the past when doing a kit, but if we kit up his car I can

then cut the hoses to length. Otherwise I can ship an uncut length of hose which you

have to cut to suit your install. (this is assuming that the layout & mounting

positions for the oilcooer etc will be identical or at least very similar to his r33

gtr of course!)  

Freight via aussie post is not an issue. Express post probably the best way as we

can track it - regular post you cannot.

The oilcooler we use is a UK brand SERCK by oxford oil coolers - very well known.

The hose fittings & hoses are all aussie made speedflow. The remote filter blocks

are ones we get made ourselves from cnc machined billet 6061 t6 alloy.

The prices I did with are as follows:  

Braded line kit to suit GTR:

Retail: $1025

SAU single buy: $875

SAU Group Buy (5+ kits): $825

GAT push-lock hose kit to suit GTR:

Retail: $935

SAU single buy: $800

SAU Group Buy (5+ kits): $750

If you require any additional information please don't hesitate to ask,

Regards,

Toby Hunt  

Sales Manager  

 

Factory 7, 1-7 Friars Road,  

Moorabbin, Vic. 3189  

[email protected]  

ü m-msport.com.au

 03 9553 4200  

 03 9553 4270  

 0411 566 690

Who wants to be in a rb25det buy with me.

I imagine that being an RB2x block that the parts would be the same only the hose lengths would be different (longer for GTR). Seems to be the only difference with the units UAS sell.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...