Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

yesterday I tried to start my GT-T the first time after upgrading to GTX3076 and Link G4+. Well, it failed.

What has been modified?

  • Link G4+
  • GTX3076 int. wastegate
  • Link 3 bar map
  • Tomei headgasket
  • Deatschwerks 600 cc injectors
  • Deatschwerks DW300 Fuelpump
  • Blitz FMIC
  • 3" catback + 3" downpipe + custom turbo elbow
  • Oil gallery restrictor
  • GFB Mach 2 blowoff

What was not done, but will come in the near future?

  • Fuel pump rewire to replace the fpcm
  • Link IAT sensor (not wired in)
  • Tomei fuel pressure regulator
  • wastegate actuator (mounting plate missing)
  • boost soleniod not installed because ot the missing wastegate actuator
  • wideband (oem narrowband installed)

Modifications to the ECU:

  • R34 GT-T base map stored to ecu
  • configured for link map sensor
  • calibration of the map sensor
  • calibration of the tps
  • deactivated temp3 input (fuel temp - was enabled in base config and causing errorcode)
  • deactivated the iat because of not being installed yet

When I turn the key the fuel pump and injectors get highlighted in green, so I think that the ecu activates them. The starter cranks the engine but with no sign of firing it up.

Could it be a problem that the iat is diasbled? should i reduce the duty cycle of the injectors? Is there any further config needed that i could check before searching for issues (ignition spark/fuel/etc)? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479735-gt-t-link-g4-first-start-failed/
Share on other sites

Link provide an extensive help menu.  But you need to go right through the whole tune file, make sure the sensor settings are correct, and calibrated. This includes CAS, TPS, injectors.  First time around, you will burn time.  But follow their prompts and don't leave out any steps.  Physically check connections like CAS, injectors, and coils.

It is easy to test fire the injectors and ignition without the engine running, just follow the help menu.

If you haven't got IAT wired and functional, you're going to need to work around that one, in case the settings makes the ECU think it's seeing -50 or +140C temps.

The other thing is to double and triple check all earths around the engine.  Link has a good feature to tell you when inputs are off scale and erroring too.  It's all in the help menu.

  • Like 1

Above post is good, but just to confirm, actually confirm that you have fuel, air, spark. Just because the ECU is attempting to fire the injector doesn't always mean the injector is being fired. As above, you may need to see what IAT is used when the sensor is unplugged, it will have a fail condition.

The link forum may be of more help here. At this point (and the joys of standalone ecus) your link could be running any engine.

  • Like 1

I've done some checks yesterday. Spark test was successfull but the spark plug seem to stay dry. Fuelpump is working and there is fuel in the fuelrail and pressure on the fuellines.

So I think the injectors are not getting fired in the correct way. Deatschwerks say that they are p&p for the gt-t, I'll check if that information is correct. Does anyone have more information about that? I used 21S-05-0600-6.

 

When I disable the iat in PcLink the ecu sets a permanent temperature of 21°C.

Edited by Finn_GT-T

As has been said the Link help file has all information needed to get it running. 

Need to set trigger widest slot and trigger offset values. Depending on what fuel mode you use will depend on how you tune it. Next is injector data THIS IS IMPORTANT especially with modelled fuel. The base file is helpful but generally doesn't get it running if you have never used one or have a good understanding of how the ecu works. 

You need a Wideband sensor and controller to tune, wire to a AN input or to CAN. Factory narrow band is useless. IAT is only used for corrections but is definitely a must. 

May pay to get a workshop or someone who knows what they are doing to get it sorted.  

Or if you need more info PM me. 

Ok mates, finally I solved the riddle with the help of the injector testing function. The solution was just as simple as plugging in the connector of the injector harness...lol

Now the engine is running...not very well, but i runs.

Thank's for your help!

 

So here's my next question for you:

Deatschwerks provides the following data sheet:

https://www.deatschwerks.com/sites/www.deatschwerks.com/files/DATA/injectordata/21S-XX-0600-XX%20Injector%20Characterization%20Summary.pdf

I already adjusted the dead time table in PcLink. But where do i put the values from the "Pulsed Flow Data"-table of the data sheet? Is that the right data for the "injector short pulse width adder table"?

Edited by Finn_GT-T

I don't know how it is done in Link. You might have a single percentage adjustment number to put in, or there might be several points you need to fill. Whatever it is, you are looking to bump up whatever the ECU thinks it should do for a pulsewidth by a small amount at low pulsewidths to account for the fact that injectors don't flow as well as they "should" at low pulsewidths.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...