Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Folks

You may be able to search for my rumblings and complaints over the years how my 1.5 way was a bit clunkier around town than your regular 1.5 way and how I wanted to fix that to no avail.

Upon finding a unicorn R34 Helical, this diff is now for sale. As I know people would want to see the center before buying a rando diff, I took the cover off and found that it was actually a fkin 2 way diff the entire time.

It was recently rebuilt from scratch to try and find "the problem" and of course there was none, which was... quite a lot of money not so well spent on my behalf, but hey this diff has been entirely rebuilt for your pleasure.

Will bolt and plug in directly to your R34. I can confirm this thing locks up HARD in both Accel and Decel scenarios.

You could use it on the street, I did for quite a long time it turns out and I did not die. However, I wouldn't recommend it for a daily.

$1200 obo.

Pickup strongly preferred!
 

1671376697_NismoCenter.thumb.jpg.6da24a101ed2f40495eb2d80b1fca49f.jpg

IMG_20200228_183625.jpg

IMG_20200228_183633.jpg

IMG_20200228_183643.jpg

IMG_20200228_183707.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479871-r34-gtt-nismo-2-way-diff-whole-diff/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Fit, physically? Yes

ABS though? Your guess is as good as mine. The R34 has 2 ABS sensors one on each stub axle, the R33 has one (or none). Can you just... put the sensor into one of the ports on the stub axles?

Maybe? Yes? No? Maybe the cable won't reach/needs to be extended?

You'd be a guinea pig in that aspect.

Could you pull the center and driveshafts out of my diff, put them into a R33 ABS R200 housing? Uh, maybe? Again not sure. Depends on your confidence and how much you care about ABS as far as I know...

20 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Can you just... put the sensor into one of the ports on the stub axles?

No. Different pulse rates vs speed.

21 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Could you pull the center and driveshafts out of my diff, put them into a R33 ABS R200 housing? Uh, maybe? Again not sure.

Yes, of course. Although you will almost certainly end up paying for diff setup here, as the pinion from Greg's diff will have to be put onto the R33 diff's input /pinion shaft, because I think that the diffs with front ABS have a longer housing*.

(I might be wrong, but it looks like it in various piccies I've seen.)

I was really hoping GTSBoy would find this thread, because all I can confirm 100% (with no taking anything apart, bolt/unbolting centres) is that it'll go into a 34.....TURBO ?
 

  • 1 month later...

Cmon folks, surely someone wants to do a skid.

Technically this is a 1.5 way, it's just everyone thinks 1-ways are actually 1.5 ways.

  • 4 months later...

It would appear noone wants to do a skid. This is now a 1.5 way. It's always been a 1.5 way, because anything between a full 45 degree 2 way, and a 90 degree 1 way, is a "1.5" way though it could easily be referred to as a 1.2 way or 1.75way or 1.9way.

If you have a 34 get a diff. Specifically this one.

It is 4.111 (or 4.083 if it originally came for an auto) which has.. 0.5kmh difference between the two in any one gear.

  • 6 months later...

Sorry no - It's been sold, I didn't close the thread off due to bumping it from oblivion seemed un-necessary.

It has gone to a new home, namely a madman who is putting a E60 V10 into a R33.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
    • And other times you just need to go buy bigger injectors?
    • Yup. I actually just blew my turbo. LOL.  should have checked this thread before today. i also have no boost solenoid. so it should be...one line from wastegate to turbo inlet, and a T somewhere in that line that connects to the wastegate return pipe?
    • It's recommended, however I can assure you a good amount of people don't bother. FWIW, the OEM battery lasted 4.5 years and I changed it prematurely too, I reckon could have stretched it to 5 years.
×
×
  • Create New...