Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so probably been beaten to death, I apologize.

 

so in a nutshell for a 30 swap in a r34 GTR. I would need to:

get the awd adaptor

drill a hole for an extra tensioner

and make the crank collar longer?

will the getrag bolt on directly to the motor?

am I missing anything else? Are there instructions on where to drill the hole for the tensioner?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479957-2630-build-questions/
Share on other sites

Yes, Yes, no necessarily (longer oil pump drive is desirable not required), not exactly (the lower bolt holes will be off between the sump and gearbox by the height of the awd adapter. depending on how much that troubles you I've seen some people just leave the lower bolts out, my gearbox was redrilled for the new lower bolt locations.

The rb30 pdf guide has information on tensioner options, and depending on the block you get you may already have to location for the tensioner machined, or you may need to get that done. There can also be differences on whether the required oil feed and returns are in the block or whether you have to drill and tap them

beyond that, motor prep is like any other rebuild (you can decide how far to go), and things like radiator hoses will not fit directly and will need modification.

And finally, I think it is a terrible idea to put an rb30 in a R34 GTR these days. Start with something people don't care about like a 33 GTR instead (no one cares about middle children).

3 hours ago, Duncan said:

Yes, Yes, no necessarily (longer oil pump drive is desirable not required), not exactly (the lower bolt holes will be off between the sump and gearbox by the height of the awd adapter. depending on how much that troubles you I've seen some people just leave the lower bolts out, my gearbox was redrilled for the new lower bolt locations.

The rb30 pdf guide has information on tensioner options, and depending on the block you get you may already have to location for the tensioner machined, or you may need to get that done. There can also be differences on whether the required oil feed and returns are in the block or whether you have to drill and tap them

beyond that, motor prep is like any other rebuild (you can decide how far to go), and things like radiator hoses will not fit directly and will need modification.

And finally, I think it is a terrible idea to put an rb30 in a R34 GTR these days. Start with something people don't care about like a 33 GTR instead (no one cares about middle children).

I had a built rb26 with a t88. Unfortunately dumb shit started to happen and I got the car stolen and it came back with a blown motor and turbo. But I stumbled on a rb30 
 

thank you for the information Do you have a link to the PDF on hand? Or a thread with your build?

2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Or you could just buy one...(from short block to complete engine)

https://www.ripsracing.com/catalog/Complete-Motors-40/Complete-Engine-Package-32.html

Totally an option if it wasn’t an arm and a leg to ship the motor from there to here. I was looking at a spool short block at one point 

  • 11 months later...
1 hour ago, mugiwara no luffy said:

will there be clearance issues with the bonnet and the block.

Some have had issues, I did not (R33).  Mate, custom engine fitting requires an optimistic ' suck it and see approach" my 25/30 went straight in, I could have dicked around for hours making mounts beforehand that would not have been required.

3 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Some have had issues, I did not (R33).  Mate, custom engine fitting requires an optimistic ' suck it and see approach" my 25/30 went straight in, I could have dicked around for hours making mounts beforehand that would not have been required.

Ah nice. I heard there was no clearance issues but I wanted to make sure. 
 

now to compensate for the extra height I need to modify the down pipe, intercooler piping, and radiator hoses correct?

5 hours ago, mugiwara no luffy said:

Ah nice. I heard there was no clearance issues but I wanted to make sure. 
 

SOME have had clearance issues, block height is about 20mm higher, my point was you will not know until you check after fitting.

On 2/23/2021 at 2:53 AM, Rusty Nuts said:

SOME have had clearance issues, block height is about 20mm higher, my point was you will not know until you check after fitting.

Thanks for the info 

I just bought some spacers from prp just in case

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • lol no cats running str pipes … might put the high flow back on but I suspect it might effect my ignition timing a bit. 
    • That looks a bit like yellowing to me. If the rear bar was looking like that from rich idle, I'd ask the question, do you have a catalytic converter fitted, and fully working?
    • Oh yeah gets really bad down here. I’ll have to upgrade the heater and wind screen wipers as well for optimal performance.
×
×
  • Create New...