Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 21/07/2022 at 5:24 PM, Kinkstaah said:

That reminds me, why did I use all of the ports on the valve covers when I could neaten it and just use the PCV like you have done.

Cause.. flow? Ugh. Looks nice man. Much nicer than mine!

I asked about this when Autotech put the blower on, this is the way Harrop has the installation, the drivers rear breather is plugged, the passenger rear breather goes to a PCV valve then the intake, the front drivers fresh air is still there plumbed in to the intake as well

I asked about if it would restrict the flow, both Harrop and Autotech said it was fine and a single 3/8" line is more than enough, because thats what it basically has stock, well, my rear main is still where it is meant to be, and the dip stick stays in its tube

The standard valve cover vents go from 2 x 3/8 to 1 x 3/8 line with a PCV valve  into the TB

On 21/07/2022 at 6:59 PM, Ben C34 said:

Why are you so worried about heat man?

It's not like they burst into flames. It is like 20yrs old and hasn't burnt down yet.

Because I'm bored and want to play around, plus they have heat shields standard

I assume an engineer smarter than me thought it was a good idea, and it got past the people holding the purse strings, so they thought it was necessary as well 

I asked myself "why do OEM exhaust manifolds all have heat sheild, and why does nearly every modified car doesn't have one"

My conclusion for OEM was the smarter than me engineer senario above

For the modified cars, my conclusion was it doesn't add HP for the money and time, so alot people don't bother, until they melt wiring or other stuff

Meh, I've got a heap of the sheilding for a few attempts, worse case senario is I hate it and start looking at V4.0, or, some other random thing that the voices in my head think is a good idea.........

(I wonder what a 4" exhaust would sound like compared to the current 3.5" single ?????)

 

  • Like 1
On 7/21/2022 at 8:09 PM, The Bogan said:

I asked about this when Autotech put the blower on, this is the way Harrop has the installation, the drivers rear breather is plugged, the passenger rear breather goes to a PCV valve then the intake, the front drivers fresh air is still there plumbed in to the intake as well

I asked about if it would restrict the flow, both Harrop and Autotech said it was fine and a single 3/8" line is more than enough, because thats what it basically has stock, well, my rear main is still where it is meant to be, and the dip stick stays in its tube

The standard valve cover vents go from 2 x 3/8 to 1 x 3/8 line with a PCV valve  into the TB

 

The earlier LS1's do that, the newer ones (like mine) have the PCV valve in the valley cover, so the only hose they have stock is the under-valley one to the intake manifold.

My one came with a nightmare combination of both vents and a newer PCV. You need to have the one from the throttle body on. I plugged it and exploded my dipstick at the track N/A because I was thinking boost land with a one way valve. Well it turns out crankcase pressure when it builds vents in the other direction into the intake manifold, so it's both fresh air and a vent. So don't mess with that one lol.

  • Like 1

Found my next pointless mod

Purchased a RU-3130 for $50 with a 3.5" flange, LOL, I said flange.... >s-l400.thumb.jpg.eb2ca6d47f73db04ffae08b68a874e65.jpg

Plus some composite sheet and pinchweld to look like >

0e53602e-a8c4-439f-89c1-a4a9c0ed3d6b.medium.thumb.jpg.f2aae5c63b9cde1f35e8800693c93d9d.jpg

Why, maybe more induction noise, and a day of making templates, drinking beer and possibly even some wrinkle coat paint splashed about

  • Like 2
On 23/07/2022 at 12:31 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Maybe you should buy Lego, same feeling, less money lol

Have you ever stepped on Lego?

That stuff is dangerous and I won't have it anywhere near me

Plus cars and motorbikes are like Meccano and Lego for adults 

Going to WSID tonight with the boy for some passenger runs

Not going for gold, I'm going to leave easy with some minor mechanical sympathy 

In other news, I have the local tilt tray guys number on speed dial 🤣

  • Like 2
On 27/07/2022 at 8:09 PM, Ben C34 said:

Nice, are you stalling it up or just mashing the pedal?

Often people stall it up and it hinders more than helps. Just mash it and see what happens.

Just mashing and pedalling it

I've still haven't had the RaceTCS fitted yet though, once that is installed it should knock some time off my 60'

Even 2 seconds flat on the 60' should get me into the 11's I'm thinking

The big old girl feels really good

Drag radials will change it, I mean if the 60ft becomes 1.8 you'll be down into the very low 11's to boot.

Then again after you have the slip in your hand you now have extra rims and tyres to stare at going "Ah yeah... cool, now what"

So may as well just do the math and be satisfied 😛

  • Like 1
On 28/07/2022 at 9:05 AM, Kinkstaah said:

Drag radials will change it, I mean if the 60ft becomes 1.8 you'll be down into the very low 11's to boot.

Then again after you have the slip in your hand you now have extra rims and tyres to stare at going "Ah yeah... cool, now what"

So may as well just do the math and be satisfied 😛

I'm really happy with the car as it stands, the MPH shows hows that the car is making good power, but with the limiting factor of traction on the dig

I did umm and arr about drag racials, but I cannot really justify purchasing drag radials and rims to get a better ET, which like you said, would just sit a around for most of the time, the old girl was built to be a fun cruiser with some poke, not a drag car

When the RaceTCS gets hooked up I'll have another go and see how that goes IRT improving my traction on launch, my vision is a fast street car than I can drive up and down the coast in, and have a little fun with on the odd occasion, without worrying about needing to swap to drag radials to do it

I am happy to run the R888R rubber on the rear though, so far they are lasting really well, they have run up and down to Goulburn, Canberra, and Coffs Harbour a few times, and are just as good, if not better than the Hankook RS4's in the wet, and they have done alot of driving around in the wet, I'm hoping to get 10-15k km out of a set doing street duties

  • Like 1

Whilst I'm playing around with the car it would be unfair not to play around with the bike

My right heal would get rather toasty sitting next to the exhaust, even though it does have a shield, so, some heat wrap under the sheilding was called for, you cannot even really see it which is nice

I'm riding to Goulburn tomorrow so it should cure well and stop smoking by........ Marulan........

Just need to give the bike a clean, to ensure it rains today, and not tomorrow....

20220731_132203.thumb.jpg.d96d769c21ff5f9967fb389c9b292f93.jpg20220731_132220.thumb.jpg.be14714b5e57b1547ff41028e9742699.jpg

On 31/07/2022 at 2:17 PM, Duncan said:

My tip is....it's bogan cruise ship, not harley, weather down here at the moment mate

I've got alot of warm bike gear that can deal with the cold, and for the wet I've got good wets and warm waterproof boots

I'll will still be on leave next week, and I'm hoping that after hanging out with the daughter for a few days I'll go for an inland adventure, possibly to Walgett, then along the Gwyder into Grafton then the A1 into Coffs, it's a great ride on the bike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...